Flight of the Challenger pin

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
dgauley
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Post by dgauley » Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:45 am

Absolutely do not place a bolt. There is a reason the first bolt from club flex has it's hanger missing(i did not remove it). Most people find a bolt placed this close to an aesthetically beautiful line like flight offensive.
The pin, which was a lost arrow was replaced i believe last year with a leeper z stacker or similar. I don't think is a good application for this type of pin.
Either replace the pin with the right size Arrow, or leave it as is.

dgauley
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Post by dgauley » Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:45 am

Absolutely do not place a bolt. There is a reason the first bolt from club flex has it's hanger missing(i did not remove it). Most people find a bolt placed this close to an aesthetically beautiful line like flight offensive.
The pin, which was a lost arrow was replaced i believe last year with a leeper z stacker or similar. I don't think is a good application for this type of pin.
Either replace the pin with the right size Arrow, or leave it as is.

Brendan
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Post by Brendan » Wed Jun 16, 2010 9:37 am

paulc wrote:And Brendan, you should get off the fence here. You don't want a bolt, but they you would clip it if it were there.Paul
Paul,

I was hardly serious. Those who know me know that I would never clip a bolt if gear can be placed. I was showing mercy to the sport climbers who want to try crack.
Besides, keeping the climb all clean (no bolts) keeps the flailers off ;)

paulc
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Post by paulc » Wed Jun 16, 2010 12:49 pm

Hi Brendan;

I must have missed your sarcasm on that...

Good discussion going on here.

Paul

Brendan
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Post by Brendan » Wed Jun 16, 2010 3:36 pm

No probs! It is good to know how people here feel about this issue, and the general topic of replacing fixed pins with bolts.

J Mace
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Post by J Mace » Wed Jun 16, 2010 3:50 pm

Bolt the buttress too

Brendan
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Post by Brendan » Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:08 pm

J Mace wrote:Bolt the buttress too
Well, I do recall you bringing up the fact that the fp which is on the Buttress crux pitch should be pulled and replaced with a bolt.
I'm glad I talked you out of it.

Keep it clean J Mace. Don't ruin it for the rest of us :roll:

Peter
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Post by Peter » Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:33 pm

paulc wrote:
slopr wrote: What about the fixed nuts that are on the line now? Should those be removed every time they get stuck?

Paul
Yes they should be removed, in fact that's another debate, as the 'ol fixed nut, seems to be appearing more and more these days..... :wink:

Dru
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Post by Dru » Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:30 pm

Brendan wrote:that the fp which is on the Buttress crux pitch should be pulled
oh don't worry, it will fall out by itself soon :twisted:

Brendan
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Post by Brendan » Wed Jun 16, 2010 8:30 pm

Dru wrote:
Brendan wrote:that the fp which is on the Buttress crux pitch should be pulled
oh don't worry, it will fall out by itself soon :twisted:
Well if you stop stepping on it all the time maybe it can last till the end of summer :oops: :P

marc_leclerc
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Post by marc_leclerc » Thu Jun 17, 2010 3:28 pm

The 'if you don't like the bolt, don't clip it' argument is futile and useless. The presence of the bolt still alters the commitment factor, whether you plan on clipping it or not. You could go up, feel strong and pull it without clipping. But if you suddenly felt bad about it you could cop out and clip it and take.... the fact that you can do that still ruins the climb. If you are too scared to do the easy section of the hard climb without a bolt, traverse a little and clip the bolt on Snadford squeeze job with a sling.. but like I said if someone places a bolt where the pin used to be, I will chop it myself if no one else does....

Anders Ourom
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Post by Anders Ourom » Thu Jun 17, 2010 8:28 pm

So will it be Flight, or Fight?

slopr
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Post by slopr » Thu Jun 17, 2010 8:35 pm

haha well put Anders :lol:

Brendan
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Post by Brendan » Thu Jun 17, 2010 9:03 pm

Anders Ourom wrote:So will it be Flight, or Fight?
Come on Anders, you should know it's supposed to be 'fight or flight' 8)

Lurch
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Post by Lurch » Sat Jun 19, 2010 6:48 pm

I dunno boys that buttress pin seemed pretty solid when i bailed on it last weekend.

Granted i only fell 6 inches because i had just clipped it but i do weigh a good 200 pounds and it felt solid while i hung on it.

I had 8 pieces in by that point but i sure was glad to clip that pin. 2 moves from an onsight dammit :)

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