Mosquito Area

[Optimally-Primed]

Does anyone know who cleaned the line marked in red in this photo?

It's not listed in any of the guidebooks I have. And I can't find mention of it on this site. The red line goes up a corner between Mosquito and Sphincter Quits for about 6m before veering left into Mosquito. It was somewhat overgrown as of this fall.



I ask because this weekend, I cleaned up the entire line: up into the tight corner on the right. Posting to come when I get its history sorted...

Jeremy

[Brendan]

Wow, there's now four climbs within six feet of each other.
It looks like a chossy gully and a waste of time.

[bradley3297]

im sure a couple more could be packed in. that walls not nearly busy enough as it is.

[Trick]

If there is more than 2 parties here, just keep going! The more clean lines, the more choices we have as climbers. WTF is with all the flack on cleaning?? OP should be getting props for all the sh*t work he's doing. Instead he's just getting more sh*t! I don't get it.

[Dru]

That deep corner right of Sphinxter Quits is an old Rybak route from the 80s that could use a touch up too.

It'd be nice to see a time lapse series of shots taken a year apart to witness how fast some of these things grow over.

[Brendan]

If there is more than 2 parties here, just keep going! The more clean lines, the more choices we have as climbers. WTF is with all the flack on cleaning?? OP should be getting props for all the sh*t work he's doing. Instead he's just getting more sh*t! I don't get it.

There's a difference between ragging on someone for chopping down trees and $hit like that, and squeezing in new routes where there really doesn't need to be any.
Having said that, I have said nothing about Jeremy cutting down trees. In fact, cut down all the trees you want - the Chief is littered in them

[Optimally-Primed]

I invite my critics to try my routes before they critique them. Ignorance, after all, is not a point of view.

I say that the more 5.9 hand cracks we can "squeeze" into Squamish, the better.

On another note, the red line was climbed and cleaned by Hanzal and Turley in 2006 or 2007, if I'm not mistaken. They called their line "Malaria" and graded it 5.9. The line that I cleaned diverges at about 1/3 height, heading straight up a finger to hand corner and a deep V-slot with yet another hand crack at the back. I'm still trying to decide how to sort out the name situation. Does what I cleaned deserve a name?

[gearheart]

I believe that route is a newish (06/07?) Hanzal and friends (B.Moorhead & Turley?) creation. Todd

[t-bone]

Unless this route is completely independant of Mosquito, I really don't see the point. If Mosquito is open then nobody is going to choose a dirty corner instead.
If it can be climbed while another party is on Mosquito (and Sphinter Quits)then it makes, but otherwise its just a bit silly

[bradley3297]

good to have options though. ive climbed mosquito so many times that i might just choose a new line beside it. i mean how many times am i going to climb mosquito before i try a different line. My previous comments were in jest.

[Brendan]

i mean how many times am i going to climb mosquito before i try a different line.

Or you can climb something harder. Mosquito can only be climbed so many times before you start doing it blind-folded with one hand strapped behind your back.

[serac]

I am pretty sure that the FA is Joe Turley and after 30 years of climbing Mosquito maybe he wanted to do something different. He called it 10a and I am not sure he named it. I just hope at 72 years old I am still able to FA 5.10s at my local crag. I found it pretty physical for 10a. I'll ask Kevin or George to confirm if it has been named.

[J Mace]

Mosquito is polished, maybe this will help out. Pinball could use a little TLC combine that with Old age, Killer fridge, Sparkys crack, Spinqter and you have a nice area with some pressure off of the two main climbs.

The 10+'s left and above old age look great too and with the recent tree work on jabberwocky ledge the whole area is actually quite nice.

The three pitch line, Old age, Sparkies, then direct to wonderland is a hoot too!!

[Optimally-Primed]

I've been in contact with George Hanzal. We've decided that while our two lines share a common start, they deserve independent names.

I offer up the name "No-see-um" (5.9) for my line. (A double entendre if you follow my drifts.) Here are all the lines in the immediate area, with the exception of Malaria (which is shown on the earlier photo in this thread).

Circles correspond to the top-out for each route (colour-coded). I haven't yet added an anchor for No-see-um, but will do so before the spring.

Here's the real question: how did we all overlook a 5.9 hand crack in our midst for so long?!



Enjoy!

[Aaron]

Here's the real question: how did we all overlook a 5.9 hand crack in our midst for so long?!

Good question. I ask my self this all the time. I attribute it to the human condition of our general inability to question the hegemony.

Great work what your doing. Keep it up!