Sport Multi

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
dunndan
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Post by dunndan » Tue Sep 01, 2009 10:09 pm

The only "Dancing" routes I see in Select are

Dances With Bolts
Dances with Pigs and
Dancing with the village idiot

Am I missing something here?

pinner
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Post by pinner » Wed Sep 02, 2009 7:59 am

Yes! As the fellas have been trying to tell you, you're missing the McLane guide. Page 308 in the 2005 version.

harihari
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Post by harihari » Wed Sep 02, 2009 8:14 am

t-bone wrote:Dancing in the Light is also in the Select book.....

Local Boys (now 10d apparently) is a good way to start if you are concerned 10c is too easy for you. If you walk up Local Boys then amble over to Magic Carpet Ride and give it a shot. If you onsight that thing I doubt many people will give you grief about being from T dot.

only draws required.....
..and if you DON'T onsight and take the fall, then your cred goes up too ;-)

Dru
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Post by Dru » Wed Sep 02, 2009 9:59 am

There are a couple of sport multipitch routes in Cheakamus Canyon. Also, as noted , the AMO Wall near Shannon Falls is 3-pitch well bolted slab (details in new routes forum)

Paddy
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Post by Paddy » Wed Sep 02, 2009 12:51 pm

Hi there,

Welcome to Squamish and the West Coast......Here are some suggestions for small mulit-pitch sport routes

starcheck 5.9 with 10c optional last pitch
AMO wall near Shannon 5.10 and less slab
Sacralige(sp?) check
Master of My Domain-check
Stairway to Heaven- bulletheads

AND...... all those fun, heady, freaky old school slab routes on the apron.......if you are not well-schooled in slab climbing....I strongly suggest re-thinking the grade that you can climb on some of these routes.......there are so many varied styles of climbing in squamish that an old school 5.9 slab route will sometimes have 5.12 sport climbers shitting their pants...think White Lightening.......

Good Luck....most mutli-pitch "sport routes" in Squamish involve significant amounts of slab climbing.......I suggest starting off on the first three pitches of the Bottom Line (APRON) to get your slab shoes and feet up to speed....good luck

P

t-bone
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Post by t-bone » Wed Sep 02, 2009 4:01 pm

I'm pretty sure Dancing in the Light is in the Select guide. Check the Apron section, it'll be on the same page (or very close) to Dream On.

t-bone
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Post by t-bone » Wed Sep 02, 2009 6:01 pm

Dancing in the Light is on page 110 of the Select book (route #23).

dunndan
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Post by dunndan » Wed Sep 02, 2009 7:24 pm

Thanks for all the help guys, I'm really stoked on taking my first slab fall (fillet), I onsighted a couple up in the bulletheads (Shannons Dancing, Xenolith Dance and Dances with bolts) but we'll see how my mental stamina does a couple pitches up!

Also, I think I'd better trade in my sport slippers before I head up.

slopr
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Post by slopr » Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:39 pm

put on some jeans too!

hafilax
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Post by hafilax » Fri Sep 04, 2009 10:31 am

slopr wrote:put on some jeans too!
Or motorcycle leathers.

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