Grade Creep in new Bourdon guide

[t-bone]

Was thumbing through the new guide and noticed some grade creep on long-standing routes:
Centrefold at 10c?
Popeye & the Raven 10d?
I find it VERY tough to give the Angel's Crack 10b (is it as tough as the Pillar?)
Anyone know why these grades were bumped up?


I know the grades for the new routes at Chek are still being confirmed but I'm not sure about calling Trunk Monkey 12a. On the other hand I thought the grades should be reversed on Crawling Right and Creepy Crawlers. I think Rug Munchers is good at 11d, its defintely one grade harder than Filth Infatuation. My $0.02

[MCpl]

Creeping Right is definately a 10+. Maybe 10-. If you're finding it harder.... you're doing it wrong.

[5.4 Slayer]

For me, Trunk Monkey "is" 12a. It took me more burns to redpoint than any other 12a in the last year and a half. As for Creeping Right, I found it more technical but far less burly than Creepy Crawlers. At first I thought is was a soft 10d but have had a bit of trouble on it since. 10d is good.

[monkeyboy]

Creeping Right, SOLID 13.a

[Peter]

Creeping Right is 10d, I think, it's very technical so that's probably why it's giving people problems. I think Trunk Monkey is 12a, especially with the tough clip, but I haven't been on it in awhile. Angel's crack is 10b, never compare anything to the pillar, it just doesn't compare. If you're good at jamming the pillar is super easy, if you have to layback the whole thing then you're in trouble. Popeye and the Raven has always been 10d as far as I know.

[t-bone]

Popeye ands the Raven is 10c is McLane's guides....I've never seen it given 10d.

I totally disagree with giving Angel's Crack 10b - it has great rests all the way (McLane also gives it 10a). As far as I'm concerned it doesn't compare to the other 10bs in Squish (Caboose, Hand Jive, Apron Strings, Arrowroot).

I found I.J. harder than Trunk Monkey so that's why I'd say 11d, but I really can't argue with 12a too much.

Centrefold at 10c??

[Jason]

Okay, I'll bite. I just did the angel crack again a couple days ago and it is dead easy. It reminded me of Boomstick Crack, the 5.4 on the apron. I would give it a 5.9 grading.

That being said the Split Pillar was originally given the grade of 5.9. I still get mildly pumped on the Pillar, and not at all on the Angel Crack; therefore, the Angel Crack must be 5.7.

So that settles it, the new grade of the Angel Crack is 5.7 - I am glad we cleared this mess up together!

As for the Chek grades, today is going to be my first time back to that place in two years. I took a sabbatical from Chek, a hiatus, if you will...

[GELATIN MAN]

crawling right is definitley easier than creepy .
I say the grade is bang on .
thanks Gary .
Both are fun .