mt rexford guidebook??

[glomeruli]

planning a trip up to rexford/nesakwatch next weekend and am wondering if anyone knows of a guide/resource for the area.

i already have maclane's alpine select but it only mentions a handful of climbs

[Brendan]

Where's Dru?

[pinner]

checked summitpost or bivouac? (.org and .com respectively )

[Dru]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/druclimb/2886020123/

The new red Beckey Guide (Cascade Alpine Guide Vol III Rainy Pass to Fraser River) has this same photo-topo with some slightly more coherent beta and also has more detail on routes on Rexford.

[Optimally-Primed]

Drew, you got all three of my routes wrong!

A - the Buckle/Frimer is a 3-4 pitch 5..9 somewhere nondescript over left of the main face up to the ridge line

Nope. The first pitch is a 10b crack that slants left. After pitch 3, we traversed right to join up with the upper pitches of Frog Face (which were outstanding).

D - Hart of Darkness links a left-hand Dairyland start to the finish of Bugaboo Crack more or less.

We called it "Hart of Starkness", not Darkness. It finishes up a left-facing dihedral.

G - Sublimation is a big dirty chimney with some clean aid to avoid the worst dirt.

Sublimation is dirty for about 10m of the 5 or 6 pitches. Pitch 1 is one of the best pitches I've done in the mountains (see below). The aid parts are now clean enough to go free at 10+ or 11-.

[Dru]

Drew, you got all three of my routes wrong!

A - the Buckle/Frimer is a 3-4 pitch 5..9 somewhere nondescript over left of the main face up to the ridge line

Nope. The first pitch is a 10b crack that slants left. After pitch 3, we traversed right to join up with the upper pitches of Frog Face (which were outstanding).

D - Hart of Darkness links a left-hand Dairyland start to the finish of Bugaboo Crack more or less.

We called it "Hart of Starkness", not Darkness. It finishes up a left-facing dihedral.

G - Sublimation is a big dirty chimney with some clean aid to avoid the worst dirt.

Sublimation is dirty for about 10m of the 5 or 6 pitches. Pitch 1 is one of the best pitches I've done in the mountains (see below). The aid parts are now clean enough to go free at 10+ or 11-.

Since you're a guidebook author, you know how frustrating it is when people give you contradictory information about where routes go!

1) Buckle-Frimer (which could use a catchy name BTW if you guys have one) I had a purple line approximated on my old cc.com topo based on the description from Matt. Then you told me the line was well to the left of where I had it drawn and was probably off the topo to the left. Hence the current version of the topo. Now you tell me it's actually to the right and a variant start to Frog Face? OK. Also this is the first time I have heard 10b mentioned for this climb, previously it was described to me as 5.9. I just want my topo to be relatively accurate. Give me the consensus grade and the consensus line between the two members of the FA party and I'll update things.

2) Hart of Starkness. I got the name wrong, sorry. This is not so much a new route as a link up of previously climbed terrain. I still think it's worth labelling on the topo as it is one of the most obvious lines on the crag - follow apparent line of least resistance up the face.

3) Sublimation - "big dirty chimney" was verbatim description by Craig to me in an email. Photos look pretty clean though! Depending where the aid was Craig may have already freed it, his first go on F&F moved into the chimney lower than on his second (F&F free) ascent.

I would also be interested if anyone else has corrections, amendments or additions to the topo. I know some parties are heading up there this weekend. Plus over the last couple of years I have either talked to people up there or by email that have climbed "stuff" up there but have been less than specific about what exactly they did... if anyone can use this as a basis for more accurate accounts of where they went and what they climbed, it's good to hear.

[serac]

Climb On has a copy of Cascade Alpine III if you want to stop by and check it out.