Climbing ethics

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
hans
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Climbing ethics

Post by hans » Fri Jun 19, 2009 3:20 pm

I’m wondering what people think of this.

Last weekend my friend and I climbed Angels Crest. Knowing it was a weekend, and a popular route, we assumed that it would be busy. Getting up ridiculously early is not really my thing, so instead we slept in and left at noon. We were hoping that everyone, or at least the really slow parties, would be gone by the time we got there.

Neither of us is that fast, but we did catch a group that offered to let us pass, so we did. At the base of the fixed line, just past the Acrophobes, we caught up with another group who it turns out had started at 8:30. They were belaying right at the base of the fixed line, and the leader was somewhere up the pitch.

Knowing there is a much nicer belay spot a short scramble up (less rope drag from there and a better seat), we soloed to there, intending to wait until they had finished before continuing. When I got there, the leader, who I could now see climbing above me, started shouting at me, calling me an a**hole for climbing while he was leading, and threatened to climb back down and attack me with his knife (seriously!). Eventually he continued climbing, and we ended up following these guys the rest of the way, having to wait for them for really long periods of time at the belays. The guy never stopped with his rant, although by the top he had calmed down a little bit.

My question is this: Was I out of line to do what I did? I wasn’t trying to pass at the time, although I was certainly hoping to pass at the next belay stance. If it matters, it was not a difficult pitch by any stretch.

What do people think?

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Post by glomeruli » Fri Jun 19, 2009 3:55 pm

i know the spot you are talking about and understand why you would want to belay at a different spot.

as far as threatening you with a knife... that guy was a dumb a$%. but climbers with less experience (i'm assuming he is less experienced because of the time it took to reach that spot) tend to get freaked out alot easier than those who have climbed more and are more comfortable in exposed situations.

did you talk to his belayer before you passed their belay spot?? conversation usually goeas a long way but not always, and it's harder to speak with the lead climber if he's already part way up the pitch. at least if you speak with the belayer he may calm the leader down at their next belay.


another option would be to pull out your knife and threaten to cut his rope



dave

hans
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Post by hans » Fri Jun 19, 2009 4:11 pm

I did talk to his belayer. I don't remember what I said, but it was something along the line that we were just going up to the better belay spot, was that ok.

bradley3297
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Post by bradley3297 » Fri Jun 19, 2009 4:11 pm

anyone ever threatens me with a knife while there leading. im pulling you the f**k off by your rope. those are my thoughts
Bradley

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Post by Optimally-Primed » Fri Jun 19, 2009 5:50 pm

like sand through the hourglass, these are the days of our lives...

hans
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Post by hans » Fri Jun 19, 2009 9:57 pm

:lol:

That's about what I thought. It seemed rather ridiculous at the time, and clearly his reaction was a bit over the top, but I was wondering then, and now, if I had committed some sort of faux pas.

Brendan
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Post by Brendan » Fri Jun 19, 2009 10:53 pm

bradley3297 wrote:anyone ever threatens me with a knife while there leading. im pulling you the f**k off by your rope. those are my thoughts
My thoughts exactly.

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Post by Khoi » Sat Jun 20, 2009 9:27 am

bradley3297 wrote:anyone ever threatens me with a knife while there leading. im pulling you the f**k off by your rope. those are my thoughts
LOL!

I have no idea why anyone on lead thinks they are in any position to be threatening anyone.
~Khoi

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Post by mcgarnickle » Sat Jun 20, 2009 4:29 pm

christ, this is why i never had interest in doing these gumby trade routes...
Μολὼν λάβε

Steve J

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Post by Brendan » Sat Jun 20, 2009 5:47 pm

mcgarnickle wrote:christ, this is why i never had interest in doing these gumby trade routes...
Trade? :P

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Post by pinner » Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:42 am

Trade route
A trade route is a logistical network identified as a series of pathways and stoppages used for the commercial transport of cargo.
Yep, he meant trade, as in a major artery that sees heavy traffic of large, slow moving caravans.

cbovard
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...

Post by cbovard » Mon Jun 22, 2009 12:06 pm

Number one is was me on lead.
Number 2 your leader lied to my belayer and moved on.

You have an issue with what i said putting my life in danger because you and your partner were on a speed ascent.

you can reach me at 778-558-9408

I am in the city all this week and we can discuss this in person like I told you at that belay.

You are lucky I did not throw a rock at your head!

A$$%$#^@.

sincerely,

Chris Bovard

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Re: ...

Post by cbovard » Mon Jun 22, 2009 12:12 pm

cbovard wrote:Number one it was me on lead.
Number 2 your leader lied to my belayer and moved on.
Your leader was climbing the at the same time roped up as i was on the same fucken pitch.
I am on dirty loose sh*t looking down at your leader climbing.

You have the nards to come on here and complain about it.

Dropping names like Matt Maddaloni "does this so we can" sh*t.


You have an issue with what i said putting my life in danger because you and your partner were on a speed ascent.

What idiots leave at noon on a sunday to do a speed ascent of Angels Crest.

I thought you would let this lie like we talked about but you obvously you wont.

You can reach me at 778-558-9408

I am in the city all this week and we can discuss this in person like I told you at that belay. My GF will not be with me so now we can discuss this like men.

sincerely,

Chris Bovard

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Post by cbovard » Mon Jun 22, 2009 12:24 pm

Sorry about the qoutes but this board will not let you edit a post.

The fact that these 2 idiots thought it was ok to climb the same pitch at the same time when I was climbing shows ignorance and stupidity.
It does not matter how long it took us.
We were on the a$% of another party waiting around at pitch 5,6,7 and the last.

These 2 guys were moving fast enough that his leader could have waited 10-15 minutes for me to get to the belay and start belaying my GF up.
He could have been on her a$%, got up to the belay and we would have let them go.
They lied to my GF about what they were doing and she is not experienced enough to have known what was happening.
The fact they dropped Matt's name and said they were locals was a joke.

Regardless of the knife comment or not.
They did something that put my GF's life and my life in Danger.

This was discussed with numerous people that night in squamish and everyone was surprised. I will save what most of them would have done to you both pulling this sh*t with them.

They could have waited 15 min because that is how long it would have taken.

You want to come on here and ask acceptance of the online commitee then do so.
You know my real name and telephone number so you want to continue this you can call me anytime with your name and number.

You are both wankers and one day you will be involved in an accident and you will see the reality of this sport because like you both said "I have never seen anyone get hurt"..

sincerely,
chris bovard

cbovard
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Re: Climbing ethics

Post by cbovard » Mon Jun 22, 2009 12:43 pm

[quote="hans"]Knowing there is a much nicer belay spot a short scramble up (less rope drag from there and a better seat), we soloed to there, [quote]

For the record your leader was roped up and climbing. Then he pulled the rope up after I freaked out.
So were you soloing no?

Is soloing with a rope a new sport?

I do remember your leader yelling he was on belay.

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