Slesse - NE Buttress approach

[rockandsnowjunkie]

I apologize for posting this here but it seems the most apt heading under which to request info - I have used other forums but tend to get very good feed back at squamish climbing.

I'm looking for any beta, preferably current, on the approach to the buttress both direct (lower) and via the Bypass glacier. It seems as if, especially earlier summer (ie now'ish) beginning the route at the lower buttress mitigates ones exposure time to the obvious objective hazards. Any advice? Has anyone been up the buttress this season?

Much appreciated!

Is there anyway a new forum heading could be created accommodate 'non squamish' related posts?

[J Mace]

Its pretty early for a north facing alpine rock route, travelling under or over active seracs is dangerous at anytime of the year.

May 24th 2009 conditions

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... _Couloir_5

[mocco]

Was up there yesterday. Went to go do the North East couloir thingy. It's no longer a winter climb, let's just say that. Oops. Congrats to the guys who did it a few weeks ago, nice job on the timing!

The good news is that you don't need to worry about seracs on the Bypass Glacier. What you do need to worry about is how you are going to get across a large patch of slushy snow without A) going for the big ride when a chunk of it decides to go sliding off the glacier into the cirque below or B) getting smoked by slides and debris from above. After getting to the base of the NE couloir and ascertaining it's unclimability (wet and decidedly lacking in the white stuff for the bottom half), we hiked up to Crossover Pass for the view. Several times each hour, the serenity of the placid landscape was rudely interrupted by stuff (think big heavy "I'm gonna squash this puny climber into pulp!" stuff) falling, sliding and being otherwise pretty hyperactive. It was sunny and warm, so in all seriousness, a really really early caffeine fuelled sprint from the notch over to the Buttress would in all likelihood be a totally great way to go.

So would the direct line from the cirque down low. Walked right past it from the memorial. It looked good, just a bit damp in spots. Lots of rocks laying around in the snow though (hmmm, where did THOSE come from?), so Slesse is definitely shedding her winter skin. Heard lots of rockfall, more than later in the season for sure. There's also the remnant of a fairly recent large slide that seemed to have come from below the Frase Ribber and that area. All the slab below is bare. Likely culprit.

The NE Buttress itself looks like it's in great shape...not too much snow apparent on it even now, at least on the surface. The things I would be concerned about now would be (and this is in order of importance):

1) How wet is the rock from snowmelt and is it going to make all that black licheny stuff deathful?

3) Can I actually get an early enuff start to get across the glacier safely (Consider things here like "should I bivy at the cairn and bring an espresso maker?" " Do I want to hump said espresso maker up climb?" "Are werewolves or grouchy partners a viable threat at 2 am?")

2) What's the descent gonna be like? Rap slings hidden in snow? Descending steep drop-off runouts in five tennies? Dodging sluffs in fleece?

4) Who gets stuck carrying the espresso maker? Do I bring a grinder too, or bring pre-ground? Mugs? What about MILK?

Or, you could just wait until the end of August when the probably won't be a glacier or it will have been reduced to somewhere pleasant to refill your water bottle, the rock will be bone dry, and you can score booty from the previous 2 months ascentionists!

Whatever you decide, good luck! Oh, and if you find a grey siltarp, it's the one I dropped last summer from the bivy. You can have it.

[c-plus]

too bad the bottom of the ne couloir has started melting out. i had also seen the recent TR, and had planned to head up there this weekend to climb it, but my buddy kinda screwed his ankle climbing last weekend. i guess i don't feel so bad about not going anymore...

[J Mace]

The good news is that you don't need to worry about seracs on the Bypass Glacier

My bad, your right its slushy glacier chunks you need to worry about not seracs..I always get those two confused

What you do need to worry about is how you are going to get across a large patch of slushy snow without A) going for the big ride when a chunk of it decides to go sliding off the glacier into the cirque below or B) getting smoked by slides and debris from above.

[Cloudraker]

sounds like death on a stick mocco. Was the Labour Day Buttress route free of snow?

[Optimally-Primed]

I'm planning to develop a trail for the Crossover Pass descent off Slesse this summer. It would make the descent considerably more convenient.

Help is most welcome. I haven't yet planned a specific date. But I'm thinking about some weekend in July. I'll make a post once I've settled on a date.

-Jeremy

[J Mace]

I'm planning to develop a trail for the Crossover Pass descent off Slesse this summer. It would make the descent considerably more convenient.

Sometimes its nice to just leave the Alpine terrain as is...its all part of the experience, convenience should be left to the crags.

[Seth Adams]

When Kevin McLane did the FA of the N. Face Couloir he climbed rock on the N. Rib to access the snowfield. When Dan and I climbed it in May we were prepared for this possibility, and had rock shoes in case the lower part of the couloir was out (and also because we wanted to finish up the N. Rib to the summit, but, sadly, decided we didn't want it badly enough to risk a night out).

I assume that the upper N. Face Couloir is still in fine condition right now, you'll just need to climb the N. Rib on the lower portion. The N. Face Couloir and the N. Rib are almost completely interchangeable - it seemed to me like you could easily climb onto or off of the N. Rib all the way up the couloir.

Anyway, you should have rock shoes for any trip to the N. Face Couloir so that you can finish up the last six pitches of the N. Rib to the summit. Anything less than that is an attempt, right?

And, Jer, I think I Crossover Pass trail would be a nice addition, but what Slesse really needs is a zip line off the summit.

[Optimally-Primed]

Hey folks,

It's time to put aside all this cheap talk and get down to some bush-cutting walk. This Saturday. Slesse's Crossover Descent. The trail begins. My wife and I would love any help...

more info and "sign up" here

Jeremy

[rockandsnowjunkie]

Thanks to all the contributors! Mocco, great beta, I very much appreciate its comprehensiveness and slushy precision - sorry to hear about your missed timing the other week. Jeremy, establishing a proper descent route is a capital idea as the crossover section sounds like it could use some better distinguishing and tending. Thanks for your efforts!

Cheers all!