Stawamus Chief - 2009 Peregrine Falcon Closure

[Anders Ourom]

Does anyone know if the peregrines are nesting again at Squamish this year, if so where, and whether there's a closure in effect?

I was surprised to run into some people last weekend who had climbed Crap Crags, a route which goes through the middle of the 'usual' closure area, and so would normally be closed from March or April through July. If there is a closure, it would be useful if it was publicized.

[bradley3297]

i think it started march 15th is what i gathered from this thread
http://www.squamishclimbing.com/squamis ... php?t=2223

[bradley3297]

you can also find it here http://squamishaccess.ca/?p=50 best place to look

[smallman]

I saw the falcons flying around while climbing at the base of the grand on weekend. Someone was climbing Europa and the falcons did NOT seem happy about it. Kind of hoping they got a good talon raking. Maybe a sign is in order at the base of the affected climbs. Also wondering about the utility of pouring 10 grand into a route which is open for climbing for about 2 months/ year considering it was supposed to relieve pressure from the apron routes. But that is an aside. Don't climb the falcon closed routes - including EUROPA. It may affect all future access.

[J Mace]

you can also find it here http://squamishaccess.ca/?p=50 best place to look

except they dont post the route closure...whats up with that? So you make plans then change them at the base IF you run into the sign?

The best description I can find

Since the mid-1980’s Peregrine Falcons have been returning to nest in the Dihedrals Area. Climbers have observed a voluntary closure to protect the nesting falcons from disturbance. Following up on this effort by climbers, BC Parks is now placing restrictions on certain routes.
Please store all food and other bear attractant items in the storage lockers located throughout the campground.

Closed Climbs (Closed until July 31, 2009):
Millennium Falcon Negro Lesbian
Sports Illustrated Crap Crags

Cloudburst Slow Dyke
Sea of Tranquillity Illusion

Getting Down on the Brown Planet Caravan
Supernaut Warriors Wasteland

Clean Corner

Freeway (above 5th pitch), The Big Slick, Brothers in Arms

Western Dihedral (4th pitch and above)


No new route activity between Negro Lesbian and Freeway. Route closures may change pending peregrine falcon behaviour.

Open Climbs
Arrow Root Rutabaga
Cleaning the Brain Sticky Fingers

Deadend Dihedral Slow Duck

Freeway (To the top of 5th pitch) Time Passages

Western Dihedral (To the top of 3rd pitch)

[bradley3297]

actually the home page has the closure posted..... pretty hard to miss

[J Mace]

actually the home page has the closure posted..... pretty hard to miss

Must not be that hard cause I checked the link you posted and all it says is that along with the usual climbs Europa is also closed. Am I missing something on that page? Isnt Europa open until 4 or 5 pitches up?

its a long weekend down south so would be somewhat prudent to make this really straight forward, most people dont know what the usual climbs are.

[bradley3297]

sign postings would be nice but any guidebook etc tells you to check for falcon closures on possible closed routes. and a responsible climber who cared would look into it. but it would be nice to have visible sign postage or something. i think europa was mentioned specifically because it is a new route and not in the guidebooks.

[J Mace]

Kevins guidebook says this area is generally closed for Falcons check with the SAS for full closure details. But the SAS does not disclose that on their site.

Furthermore I ran into Kevin Mclane May 9th while he was coming down from Clean Corner area...so if the Closure started March 15th even he didnt know about it. But we all saw the falcons...

I dont own a Sqaumish select so I am unsure what it says regarding falcons but I bet most visiting climbers have that book

I was under the impression that Europa was bolted for single rope raps from 4-5 or more pitches up so you can still climb some of the route during falcon closures.

It should be more clear on the website.

[bradley3297]

ya i do agree that finding out this year was a chore rather than being considerably posted. parks usually posts signs.

[Khoi]

From the UBC Varsity outdoors Club wiki page:

Pitch 4 -- 5.5 (30m)
Climb up belay tree and gain the top of a large flake. Traverse right and climb up into a chimney. Bolted belay. The bolts here form the top of a rap line made for a single 60m rope, that will allow climbers to retreat from the top of pitch 4 during the falcon closure. If falcons end up nesting near the area, the rap station will be moved lower on the route.

http://www.ubc-voc.com/wiki/Europa

[Anders Ourom]

Here's a photo of the sign, as posted at the campground bulletin board. It's probably also on the signboard at the start of the Grand Wall trail.


It seems that BC Parks and climbers' organizations might do better at publicizing the closure, and specifying its length and the area/routes covered. Although a few claim that the closure is "voluntary", it clearly is not, from BC Parks' perspective. If it ever came to falcons v climbers, in terms of park management, my money's on the birds. They're an iconic species, and there is certainly power under the Park Act to enforce the closure.

[smallman]

Interesting, that sign was not there a couple of weeks ago.