WILD at ADVENTURE!

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
changlama
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WILD at ADVENTURE!

Post by changlama » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:50 pm

WILD at ADVENTURE!

Two nights of adreneline-fuelled adventure! Special guest presentations by extreme skier Greg Hill and Alpinist Jeremy Frimer plus films from the 2009 Best of the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival tour.

In the lobby there will be an adventure photography exhibit, live music and a silent auction of adventure gear with proceeds going to the Grand Wall Bouldering Co-op.


Greg Hill bio

Greg Hill is a modern day explorer who skins his way into the unknown. He has skied in Alaska, New Zealand, Europe and all over North America but will mostly be found exploring his home range; the Colombia mountains. He lives in Revelstoke and has been pushing the backcountry boundaries ever since he moved there in 2000. With limitless mountains at his disposal Greg is always searching for a new line, or a new peak he has not skied before.

Jeremy Frimer bio

Canadian Jeremy Frimer is an elite alpine climber. Jeremy’s 12-year alpine career has taken him on 13 expeditions to the world’s greatest ranges. Jeremy is responsible for establishing significant new alpine routes in the greater ranges of the world and publishing articles about them in top-tier alpine journals and magazines. Jeremy has also authored a book about one of the world’s most significant mountain ranges which is located in Peru.

More info can be found at www.wildatart.ca under the "film" link

changlama
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Post by changlama » Wed Jan 07, 2009 10:03 pm

More info...

March 6 and 7, 2009

7pm - 11pm

Eagle Eye Theatre, Howe Sound Secondary School, Squamish, BC

Tickets are $15 and are available on-line at www.wildatart.ca under "FILM" or at Climb On, Valhalla Pure or the Squamish Adventure Centre.

changlama
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More info...

Post by changlama » Wed Feb 04, 2009 8:01 pm

Rich Wheater will have a photo exhibit in the lobby of the Eagle Eye Theatre during both nights of WILD at ADVENTURE. Rich has some incredible stuff, check it out http://www.richwheater.com

changlama
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Post by changlama » Mon Feb 23, 2009 4:56 pm

I'm looking for a few good volunteers to help out with the shows. Free tickets and beer!

email me at changlama@telus.net

Thanks,

Ivan

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Post by t2climb » Mon Feb 23, 2009 9:55 pm

Elite Alpine climber....who are you kidding?

changlama
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Post by changlama » Tue Feb 24, 2009 9:55 am

Born and raised in Vancouver, Jeremy Frimer is a seasoned alpine climber. Over the course of his 12-year alpine “career”, he has made14 expeditions to the world’s greatest ranges. And in doing so, he has established a number of new ice and rock routes. Having published articles about his alpine exploits in alpine journals and magazines, Jeremy also authored a book about one of the world’s most significant mountain ranges, which is located in Peru.

But in truth, Jeremy Frimer is mostly a non-climber. He spends most of his days biking across Vancouver, sipping cappuccinos, and working on a PhD in psychology at UBC. In so doing, he develops an extraordinary amount of pent up energy, responding with dreams for Alpine projects that turn out to be far beyond his capabilities. Jeremy’s start in the outdoors came as a teenager in the TREK outdoor adventure program at a Vancouver high school. UBC’s Varsity Outdoor Club later exposed him to adventure and the thrill of lofty places.

In Alaska and the St. Elias Mountains of the Yukon, he most notably made the first ascent of Orion Spur on Mt. Logan (5959m) in 2002. Orion Spur was the first independent new line on Canada's highest peak since 1979 and he pulled it off in lightweight Alpine style with a homemade, untested bivy tent. Also in the Great White North, he established a new 18-day high altitude ridge traverse from Mounts Wood to Steele, and adventures in the Ruth Gorge and on Thunder Mountain in Alaska.

Strangely enough, Joe Simpson’s famous epic adventure, retold in the popular film “Touching the Void” had the effect of inspiring Jeremy. He thus ventured to South America where he made four expeditions to the ice-capped peaks of Peru's Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash. Visiting Simpson’s worst nightmare, he made the first ascent of the south face of the infamous Siulá Grande (6344m) by his 2001 route Southern Discomfort. In tipping his helmet to tradition, he became hypothermic in descent and nearly decided to rappel over an icefall. Then in 2002, he made an attempt on the steep, mixed northwest face of Nevado Ulta (5875m), beating a frantic retreat from high on the face as a storm dropped avalanches and rocks. The following year, his scrappy, little, American friend, Kelly Cordes, finished the job on Ulta, naming it Personal Jesus. Kelly thought it was pretty hard too.

In 2006, Jeremy made his first Himalayan expedition. The Trango Valley of Pakistan was site of his new route, Severance Ridge, on Trango II (6327m). Sixty-five pitches long, this mammoth rock ridge went in lightweight alpine style over the course of five days, the last two of which were without food. Jeremy returned to the Himalayas the next year, this time to India’s Miyar Nala Valley. With his girlfriend sitting in camp with a broken arm in cast, he quickly got the mountain business done, resulting in a single day blitz of the new Gateway Ridge. His third and most recent (2007) Himalayan expedition was to the Ogre and Latok peaks of Pakistan, where he pulled off The Outside Penguin between rainstorms.

More recently, Jeremy has been capitalizing on adventure opportunities closer to home. This past summer, he explored the immaculate rock climbing in the Adamants where he and American superstar Steve Swenson established Ostrogoth on the East Peak of the Gothics. And his newest intrigue is rescuing old, overgrown rock climbs in Squamish with a scrub brush and a crowbar.

Jeremy’s 2009 WILD at ADVENTURE presentation will revisit these stories. Rather than give an encyclopedic account of his climbs, Jeremy’s presentation will be a contrast-rich take on the alpine experience, integrating the lighter side and character portraits of his climbing partners with an honest exploration of some deeper questions surrounding Alpine climbing.

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Post by changlama » Tue Feb 24, 2009 9:56 am

From Greg Hill,

I have always defined myself in the mountains, who i really am seems to come out while playing in the hills. I have felt that we define our own boundaries and should search them out. So for years I did just that, I pushed my limits to see where they were. 30 thousand feet, 40 and finally 50 thousand feet climbed and skied in 24 hours. Or as many 10 000 foot days in a season as I could. (80..) or a million feet of backcountry bliss in a season. I did all these wild things just out of curiosity, just to see where my limits were. Testing my mountain knowledge and constantly adventuring into the unknown also became very important to me . Skiing off new summits, or into remote areas, having to depend on my skills to safely guide us through the mountains. I have skied off hundreds of summits, in Canada, Usa, Alaska and the Alps, My main stomping grounds are the Selkirk mountains where I have skied off 9 of the 10 highest summits, . Always inspired by the challenges I constantly yearn for the next unskied one. I have spent many days traversing through the mountains, the biggest epic being The Monashee range; a 21 day 21 summit, 200 km pioneering ski traverse. There is nothing quite like packing up everything you need to survive for 21 days and then hope you planned well. Now I am still in pursuit of my next summit but I have begun filming and capturing our adventures. Since the mountains have inspired so much in me I hope to inspire others with these videos. Last winter I created 8 movies and I entered "the best of" into the Banff International Mountain Film festival. "The Unbearable Lightness of Skiing" made the finals and is on the world tour. This winter I am continuing to document my adventures ; check'em out at http://greghill.squarespace.com/

changlama
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Post by changlama » Mon Mar 02, 2009 4:38 pm

WILD at ADVENTURE # 1
Friday, March 6 – Eagle Eye Theatre – 7pm

SPEAKER - Greg Hill
Greg Hill is a modern day explorer who skins his way into the unknown. He has skied in Alaska, New Zealand, Europe and all over North America but will mostly be found exploring his home range; the Colombia mountains. He lives in Revelstoke and has been pushing the backcountry boundaries ever since he moved there in 2000. With limitless mountains at his disposal Greg is always searching for a new line, or a new peak he has not skied before.

FILMS
Daily Strips
France, 2008, 6 min
Directed by Dominique Janiszewski, Produced by Claude Adam,
Daily Strips is an action-packed short film with skiing, snowboarding, and speed riding, juxtaposed with cartoon dreaming and bar scenes from Chamonix, France. It has been made over 5 days during The Nissan Outdoor Games.

Unbearable Lightness of Skiing
Canada, 2008, 15 min
Directed & Produced by Greg Hill
Tired of trying to explain to people what backcounrty skiing is all about, Greg Hill takes the viewer on a season of backcountry skiing in the Columbia mountains. Showing them through the video what ski touring is all about, and what he has been.

Arbitrary Winter (Best Skiing/Boarding Film)
Canada, 2008, 13 min
Directed & Produced by Andrew Hardingham
Arbitrary Winter offers an oddly humorous look into one Canadian snowboarder’s (Andrew Hardingham) season as he travels through Western Canada, Berlin, Austria and Switzerland on a quest to find the deepest powder and biggest cliffs.
This film features very progressive snowboarding, while showcasing some of the closest calls in the business.

Solo (Jury Award)
Australia, 2008, 60 min
Directed & Produced by Jennifer Peedom & David Michôd
On January 11, 2007, Andrew McAuley set out on his quest to become the first person to kayak from Australia to New Zealand across 1600km (1000 miles) of one of the wildest and loneliest stretches of ocean on Earth. Thirty days later, New Zealand maritime authorities received his distress call.
Having survived a harrowing and torturous month at sea, conquering monstrous swells and terrifying storms, McAuley lost his life only a day from completing his journey. While his body was never recovered, the camera tapes from his kayak were and they form the basis of this moving and questioning portrait of a complex man, his family, his supporters and his attempt to conquer the impossible.

WILD at ADVENTURE # 2
Saturday, March 7 – Eagle Eye Theatre – 7pm

SPEAKER – Jeremy Frimer
Canadian Jeremy Frimer is an alpine climber. Jeremy’s 12-year alpine career has taken him on 13 expeditions to the world’s greatest ranges. Jeremy is responsible for establishing significant new alpine routes in the greater ranges of the world and publishing articles about them in top-tier alpine journals and magazines. Jeremy has also authored a book about one of the world’s most significant mountain ranges which is located in Peru.

FILMS

Annapurna in Light Style (Best Mountaineering Film)
Poland, 2008, 25 min
Directed by Darek Zaluski
Annapurna in Light Style is about an expedition of for good Polish and Slovak friends: Piotr Morawski, Peter Hámor, Piotr Pustelnik and film maker Dariusz Załuski. Their goal is to climb the North-West Face of Annapurna in the Himalayas.
The team reached the summit ridge, but due to hard weather condition they had to return. Although they were left 150m below the summit, they managed to climb a very difficult and long face in light alpine style.

Uruca (5.11/ 5.13c) (Best Rock Climbing Film)
Brazil, 2008, 8 min
Directed & Produced by Erick Grigorovski
On a Sunday morning perfect for rock climbing, cartoon character Hugo tries one of the most hard and desired climbing routes at the Sugar Loaf in Rio de Janeiro: “Uruca”. Extremely difficult and dangerous, it will demand all of his skill and concentration.

Azazel
France, 2008, 22 min
Directed by Guillaume Broust, Produced by PETZL
Azazel lures you to a 19-day vertical big-wall trip with Martial, Blutch, Mimouse and Sam who don’t take them too seriously. They have to haul up 300 kilograms of equipment along with sausages and beer to keep them going at 6 000 meters of altitude. Their scope is to open a new 1,600 meter-long aid route on the mythical Towers of Trango in Pakistan.
On day 16, Sam flies away on his wing suit and his parachute, and 2 minutes later arrives to the base camp. What was left to be taken down by his 3 friends? Just 10 haul bags, nothing more.

To Hell and Back
Great Britain, 2007, 48 min
Directed by Richard Else, Produced by Margaret Wicks
In August 2007 Dave MacLeod wrote “Yesterday was the scariest day of my life, and the end of the scariest ten days of my life. The impending lead of my ‘Great Climb’ project on Hell’s Lum crag was hanging over me like a guillotine. It’s the most dangerous lead I’ve ever done...falling off from the crux or above would have meant death”.
To Hell and Back is an intimate and frightening portrait of the consequences of one of the world’s best climbers becoming obsessed with a new route in the heart of the Cairngorm Mountains.

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Post by J Mace » Tue Mar 03, 2009 1:44 pm

he quickly got the mountain business done, resulting in a single day blitz of the new Gateway Ridge
According to Jeremy that was just an attempt, the first ascent was done by Tanja and Andrej Grmovsek in Nov 2007.
While we did not go to the top, we turned back from the shoulder immediately below (50m from) the summit block as the hour was late. So we did climb more than 90% of this line, and we did give it a name: "Gateway Ridge" and we have consistently referenced the peak as "P5600". While the purity ethic of the day calls our adventure an "attempt",
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07f/news ... y-grmovsek

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Post by Optimally-Primed » Sat Mar 07, 2009 12:52 pm

Jeremy here...

T2Climb, you didn't like me being called and "elite alpine climber"? To be honest, I didn't either. I asked Ivan to take the "e-word" out. But I guess it's good for publicity to ham it up. I'm not really interested in debating whether I'm any good at Alpine climbing, to be honest. I'll concede that I'm not. But I hope that I can still tell good stories and show pretty pictures about some places that I think are---dare I say---elite.

J Mace, wow, you've done your homework. You are right. I didn't get to the summit of that peak in India. So yes, we got the mountain business done... as in, we climbed what we wanted to climb. My girlfriend (now wife) was sitting in camp with a broken arm (from a previous trip) so I wanted to avoid an epic and get back. Those Grmovseks came back and did the last pitch the next year, renamed the "route", and raised the grade by a substantial margin. I still thing that it was pretty easy climbing. But how would I know, I'm no elite alpine climber!

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Post by Siddartha » Sat Mar 07, 2009 10:18 pm

quite right. the elite term isn't the right choice of language. douchebag is a much better fit.

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Post by mcgarnickle » Sun Mar 08, 2009 8:21 am

Siddartha wrote:quite right. the elite term isn't the right choice of language. douchebag is a much better fit.
wow it sure it easy to come up with statements like this behind your coward's shield of anonymity. You are probably the same person who flips people off while driving and takes off.
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Post by Charlie » Sun Mar 08, 2009 10:34 am

Jeremy, great slideshow last night! Thanks for making the trip up to Squamish to share your experiences with us. You really showed how unsponsored, non-elite climbers can travel the globe and attempt/send the most beautiful lines out there.

I was really impressed with how you have managed to balance your love for climbing mountains with wanting to come home safe. That is a great quality to have within a past time/addiction like climbing that is so dam selfish.

Hope to see you out there,

Charlie (not an alias lol)

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Post by Charlie » Sun Mar 08, 2009 10:40 am

Ivan, thanks for all the effort putting on a great event! I am disappointed I didn't make it out on Friday, but Saturday was not a let down. Keep up the good work. I am definitely looking forward to the summer festival!

And Sonnie, thanks for having a rubber arm that can be twisted so easily lol :)

And thanks to Jeremy and Tyson for making the silent auction happen. The money for the bouldering co-op will go a long way to keeping the gym open for years to come.

And thanks to everybody you purchased items in the auction. Without you, things like this wouldn't happen.

Now get out there and send your projects!

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Post by pinner » Tue Mar 10, 2009 3:18 pm

Don't worry too much about having missed Friday, Charlie; it was a letdown unfortunately. All of the videos were pretty poor, with the exception of Solo, which was riveting, but tragic. Left everyone feeling pretty heavy. The presentation was less-than-overwhelming as well; a few shots got me a little stoked, but mediocre-at-best storytelling by both the presenter and his video. Eagle-Eye Theatre climb-type event nights I have attended now batting 5 for 6 - the rest have, of course, been great!

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