cream of white mice

[jefffski]

i did this route years ago, so i was surprised to find a new start when i did it recently. The old route went up the gully andthen onto the arete. now the bottom of the arete has been cleaned and bolted. The old grade was 5.9 but the beginning of the arete seems way way harder than 5.9, to me. it has tricky and delicate slab moves. it's well bolted though.

i think the opeining moves go at 10a/b. if people agree, perhaps the official grade can be moved up.

any comments?

[Brendan]

jeff, have you done the direct finish? it's good.

[jefffski]

jeff, have you done the direct finish? it's good.

it looks delicate and technical and well bolted to take a fall or three on.

[Brendan]

it's very safe in the crux, which is topping out. it looks kinda tricky getting from the belay to the first bolt, w/ a huge runout, but it's ok. the holds appear out of nowhere and are very welcoming.