Where to start climbing ?

[Beno]

Hi,

I'm going to Squamish for several days in august.
I come from France with gear for trad (some nots and cams) and sport climbing.
I've bought the Squamish climbing guide and many routes seems to be fantastic.
Can you please help me choosing some single and multi pitches ?
My french "niveau" is 6a / 6b in sport climbing.
I generaly climb on limestone, I have a little experience with granite but never climb cracks in trad.

Thank you and sorry for my poor english

Happy climb !

[Trick]

Since you are new to leading trad, and crack, I would recommend going to Burgers and Fries wall (in the Bluffs). There is easy top rope action if you like, and there are a few climbs in the 5.7 (4+) range if you gunning to get on the sharp end. Also the Sugarloaf in Murrin park has some great intro crack action (but you'll need a car)

If you are looking to try some of our sport action and have a car, Chek has a lot of fun climbing in you're range.

Pick up a copy of the Squamish Select or Squamish Climbing guide book. They are both very well done.

Have a wicked trip!! =)

[J Mace]

I would have to disagree with sending anyone to burgers and fries or sugarloaf

Beno, just pick a 5.10 crack with some stars and have at it.

Try the base of the Chief, bullet heads which is in the camground has great stuff, see if you can get yourself to Sunblessed on the backside of the Chief.

Jungle Warfare and Birds of Prey on the Squaw would be a great day out, Rock On off te Apron would be good for you..dont bother sport climbing here.

Cheers

[Trick]

If you're coming for a day or two, sure grab the 5 stars. Otherwise maybe try placing a couple of pieces before you find yourself trying up an already crowded route like Rock On. Especially if that route doesn't have bolted anchors.

Oh and the sport climbing out here is damn fun! Just don't admit it to anyone.

[eresc]

hey Beno,
Send me an email, I'd like to go climbing with you if you are free. I started climbing about two years ago and this is my first season on trad, already did quite a few easy routes. I am planning on moving to France (French wife) next year so I'd love to start making friends I can climb with in France

[Brendan]

sending the poor guy to Sugarloaf is also a ridiculous idea... maybe if he lived here he could waste his time at silly crags such as that ^^ and Burgers & Fries and Flying Circus, etc...

there's plenty of other crags which do not get as much traffic, but still have good quality routes.

[pinner]

I'll agree... unless Trick is, well, tricking you, and keeping you off the good stuff. Both Burgers and Fries and the Sugarloaf are way over-climbed, crowded, and greasy/smooth from the legions of top-ropers. They also won't get you used to the "real" squamish crack nature, as there is generally loads of other features to allow you to escape from jamming (for the most part - don't get me wrong, there are som gems in there).

You will find many other great cracks of moderate grade that feel secure at other crags in the Smoke Bluffs - take your book, wander around the bluffs, and ask the other climbers what the'yve been doing that day.

[Trick]

lol. He asked for a good place to start climbing. I'm not saying spend the entire day at the Sugarloaf or B&F. There is a lot of climbing around those. I still say it's good place to put some gear in. I came from climbing slimestone, and granite is a much different thing.

If its crowded, or you look at it and think it's a waste of your time then go around the corner and climb something else. If he's leading 10a/b on limestone, it's not unreasonable to drop a few grades at least to check it out.

Plus there really aren't any crowds this year. It's pretty quite up here compared to last year.

[pinner]

Fair enough, and I would definitely agree that dropping a few grades on the transition to granite is a good idea. I learned trad at Skaha, was leading to about 10a, thinking I was crack climbing. Little did I know I was face climbing either side of a crack, and was reduced to 5.6/7 when I moved to Squamish with a "jam? what's a jam?" look on my face.

[Brendan]

unfortunately, you may have to go to many different crags, to find what you're looking for...
try to stay away from the crags which have been highly recommended in the guide, for you will surely encounter fellow gumbies.

try hitting up Mushroom .9 at the Papoose, for a healthy taste of Squamish Crack. i'd say it's easily one of the best .9 finger cracks in the area.

[bradley3297]

the reacharound is a damn good 5.9 hidden in murrin park also. wont find any gumbies on it either....

[Brendan]

the reacharound is a damn good 5.9 hidden in murrin park also. wont find any gumbies on it either....

wow i forgot about that cool climb.

[Beno]

Hi everyone,

Thank you very much for all your answers !
I've bought online Squamish Select so I've been able to identify all routes that you advised me.
I think we'll start at Smoke Bluffs - Penny Lane & Pixie Corner to discover Squamish granite.
If it goes well, I spotted "Diedre" at The Apron which seems to be a great route.
So we'll be ok to try Cobra Crack

Thank you again !

[jefffski]

Hi everyone,

If it goes well, I spotted "Diedre" at The Apron which seems to be a great route.

suggest you avoid deirdre on weekends. expect crowds by noon at penny lane.

octopus garden is quiet weekend am. nice hand cracks.

don't forget klahane crack, laughing crack and calculus crack.

on hot days avoid the bluffs and the apron in the afternoon

enjoy.

[Beno]

Thank you very much Jefffski.