ACCESS NEWS - MAY 19th, 2006
A. POWELL RIVER/ELDRED ADOPT-A-CRAG: MAY 5th - 7th
This was a great success. 20 climbers attended, and built a new trail to Carag-dur. Plans for climbing were foiled by rain, but we had a good social gathering at the climbers' campground in the Eldred Valley. Thanks to Colin Dionne, Christie LePitre and the Powell River climbing community for their hospitality. Prizes generously donated by Clif Bar, Merrell Canada, On Sight Equipment, Mountain Equipment Co-op, and Metolius.
B. THE GORGE - CHEAKAMUS CANYON
This area, which includes Galaxy Buttress and StarChek, as well as the Leaning Tower of Pizza and Gotham City, was affected by highway construction work in 2003 - 04. (See Whistler Rockclimbs, pages 61 - 67.) That led to involved negotiations. Restoration work by the Ministry of Transportation is nearly complete, including a new trail to the base, and much scaling. Climbs are open, including StarChek.
Parking: The only legal parking for this area is the large signed pullout on the southbound side, north of the Gorge. It is illegal for northbound traffic to turn directly into this parking area; if driving from Squamish, proceed further north several hundred metres, where you can safely turn around at the new salt shed.
Trail/Access: There is a good new trail down from the parking area to the start of StarChek. StarChek can now only be approached via this trail, due to unstable rock, parking limitations, and the potential for conflicts between rappellers and climbers. The new exit from StarChek is via a cleaned out groove, to the right, and once back on the highway it's not a long walk back to the parking area.
Miscellaneous: New signs will be placed to provide information and directions for users of this area. Please heed them! Some re-bolting is in progress, including anchors on Star Chek and other routes.
Source: Squamish Access Society
C. OTHER 2006 ADOPT-A-CRAGS
So far we've held two organized volunteer events in 2006, at Conroy Creek ("Chek") on April 22nd & 23rd (43 volunteers) and at the Eldred Valley (Powell River) on May 5th - 7th (20 volunteers). Several other volunteer events are planned, including:
Skaha: May, contact Janet Black at (250) 497-5164, or janito(at)canada.com. Plans are to empty and maintain the composting toilet, which after six years needs a tune-up.
Crest Crags (Campbell River): Late June, contact Chris Barner at (250) 287-4611, or sgsears(at)hotmail.com. This will be part of the Heathen's annual climbing camp.
Victoria (Fleming Beach): Spring scaling and clean up, contact Allen Agopsowicz at (250) 477-2259, or mr-al(at)shaw.ca.
Stawamus Chief: This will likely be in late August, and will be combined with a special event/fundraiser and other activities.
Nanaimo Area: Autumn, contact Greg Sorenson at (250) 751-1154 or outerlimits(at)shaw.ca.
Smoke Bluffs (Squamish): This event will likely be in mid-September, our "official" Adopt-a-Crag for the year.
Conroy Creek: We hope to eventually do further work here, possibly including grading and graveling the new parking area, providing drainage, terracing eroded areas below cliffs, and perhaps a second toilet.
Further details on each event TBA. If you want to organize an Adopt-a-Crag in your area, please let us know. We'll help with planning, publicity, draw prizes, funding, and other resources. If your organization can provide support – funding, draw prizes, materials, promotion – please also contact us.
Adopt-a-Crag is an initiative of the Access Fund, sponsored by Recreational Equipment Co-op, W. L. Gore, and Clif Bar. In 2005 it involved nearly 120 volunteer stewardship events at cliffs and mountains around the United States, and one in Canada. Adopt-a-Crag is now a year-round program; by courtesy of the Access Fund, we use the name for ‘non-official’ volunteer events.
1. Lois Nordstrom
Lois Nordstrom of Coquitlam died as a result of injuries from a fall from a route at the Crest at Conroy Creek on May 14th. She was an avid and experienced climber and mountaineer, and a member of the Access Society. Our sympathies to Lois' family and friends. There will be a memorial for Lois on Tuesday May 23rd, 2006:
Viewing: 10:30 - 11:30 AM, Woodlawn Mission Funeral Home, 7386 Horne Street, Mission, B.C.
Service: 1:00 PM, Seventh Day Adventist Church, 33522 7th Avenue, Mission, B.C. Reception to follow - please rsvp Margaret Hanson at Margaret_R_Hanson(at)yahoo.ca if you plan to attend, so arrangements can be made. Lois considered the climbing community to be her 'family of choice', and all those who knew her or wish to attend are welcome.
2. On-Line Memberships, Renewals & Donations
You can now join the Access Society on-line, renew your membership, or make a donation. Go to www.access-society.ca/getinvolved/membership.aspx complete the form, and pay via PayPal. (Credit card needed, and donations also welcome.)
3. Stawamus Chief - Peregrine Falcons
The peregrine falcons should re-appear soon, if they haven't already. Assuming they nest in their usual spot, the climbing closure will likely be through the end of July. It will include all routes from Negro Lesbian to Freeway, from four pitches above the ground to the top. In 2005, closed routes included Clean Corner, Sports Illustrated, Cloudburst, Sea of Tranquility, Getting Down in the Brown, Warriors of the Wasteland, Western Dihedral (4th ptich and above), Negro Lesbian, Crap Crags, Slow Duck, Illusion, Planet Caravan, and Millenium Falcon. Open climbs included Arrowroute, Cleaning the Brain, Deadend Dihedral, Time Passages, Black Dyke, Western Dihedral (to the top of the 4th pitch), Rutabaga, Sticky Fingers, Slow Dyke, and Freeway. If you observe the falcons, please contact B.C. Parks at (604) 898-3678, extension 234 - note location, time and activity observed.
4. Thank Yous - Volunteers
Far too many to list here, but including all the Adopt-a-Crag volunteers and organizers, the local climber organizations all around B.C. that the Access Society works with, our directors and officers, those who represent us in various issues, and so on. You know who you are - we couldn’t do it without you.
5. United States - Access Fund News
See the Access Fund website for what's happening in the United States - www.accessfund.org. You can also subscribe to an e-mailed newsletter.
6. Skaha - 2006 Parking Fee
The fee is now $3 per person per day, regardless of how one arrives at the parking lot. (Annual passes $40, $30 for each additional person in a family after the first, $30 for students with identification.) The use fee is mandatory, and helps secure access.
7. Access Society Board Meeting
The directors of the Access Society held a board meeting at Skaha on May 13th, followed by a day climbing together. We won't bore you with the details, but it's all part of building a stronger organization. We now meet in person 3-4 times a year, by phone conference 2-3 times, and of course there are lots of e-mail and calls.
8. Sea-to-Sky Highway Project Closures
Work continues on the highway project, and will through 2008 or 2009. See www.seatoskyhighwayimprovements.ca for information on current closures.
The Access Society faces many challenges in our pursuit of public access to B.C.'s cliffs and mountains, and conservation of them. Please support the Access Society in any way you can - become a member, make a donation, or volunteer! We believe the Access Society is doing an important job. It represents all those who cherish B.C.’s cliffs and mountains.
We hope this message is useful, and encourage you to share, post and forward it. Our apologies if it is unwanted! If so, please let us know and we'll remove you from our list. If your e-mail has changed, please let us know. (In a few cases this message is a duplicate, due to overlapping directories.) Also, we welcome information and contributions - please send to info(at)access-society.ca.
Climbing and related activities are dangerous, and can injure or kill you. The Access Society tries to ensure that this information is accurate, but you rely on it at your own risk!
copyright (c) Climbers' Access Society of British Columbia, 2006.
Box 72013 - Sasamat R.P.O.
Canada V6R 4P2
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