Access Society Update for May 2006

Information from the Access Society.
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Access Society Update for May 2006

Post by meingh » Thu May 04, 2006 9:17 pm


ACCESS NEWS - MAY 4th, 2006


The Access Society will hold an Adopt-a-Crag volunteer weekend at the Eldred River climbing area, northeast of Powell River, on May 5th - 7th. It will be based at the walk-in climbers camp, at mile 34 on the Goat Lake Main road. Bring camping equipment and supplies, climbing gear, and trail work equipment.

Friday (5th): Bonfire.

Saturday (6th): Climbing, followed by potluck and salmon bake.

Sunday (7th): Trail work, to improve access to Carag-dur.

RSVP: Colin Dionne at (604) 487-0487 or fjordcoast(at), particularly if you want to carpool from Powell River (or Saltery Bay) to the Eldred. See the current issue of Climbing for information about climbing in the Eldred valley.


The Access Society held a very successful Adopt-a-Crag volunteer weekend at Conroy Creek (aka "Chek") on April 22nd & 23rd. There was a total of 43 volunteer-days over the weekend, over half of whom were from the Edge Climbing Team - athletes and parents. A fitting way to mark both Earth Day and National Volunteer Week. We built a toilet at the new parking area, erected a sign board and two picnic tables near the base of Foundation Wall, and did a lot of trail work and clean up.

Thanks to the Ministries of Forests and of Tourism, Sport & the Arts for the work they've done at Conroy, and for donating the toilet, notice board and tables. Thanks also to the Alpine Club of Canada (Vancouver Section) and the Alpine Club of Canada (national) for support for these projects, and to Don McDonald from the government, who's been a great help.

Draw prizes generously donated by Merrell Canada, Metolius, On Sight Equipment, Mountain Equipment Co-op, and Clif Bar.

The plan is that the Conroy area will become a day use recreation site. We still need to grade and perhaps gravel the new parking area, provide drainage, and perhaps adjust the water bars so they're a little less abrupt. The new parking area should usually be accessible to low-clearance vehicles. The road is rather steep, and washes out easily - the last 100 metres is often rough and loose. Much work was done by the Ministry of Forests, to improve the road's drainage, provide water bars, and so on. We're also considering terracing some eroded areas below cliffs, and the possibility of a second toilet, perhaps at the start of the trail to the Main Event.


Several other volunteer events are planned this spring, including:

Skaha: Contact Janet Black at (250) 497-5164, or janito(at)

Crest Crags (Campbell River): Late June, contact Chris Barner at (250) 287-4611, or sgsears(at)

Victoria (Fleming Beach): Contact Allen Agopsowicz at (250) 477-2259, or mr-al(at)

There'll also be other events later in the year, at dates to be announced:

Stawamus Chief: This will likely be in late August, and will be combined with a special event/fundraiser.

Nanaimo Area

Smoke Bluffs (Squamish): This event will likely be in mid-September, our "official" Adopt-a-Crag for the year.

Further details on each event TBA. If you want to organize an Adopt-a-Crag in your area, please let us know. We'll help with planning, publicity, draw prizes, funding, and other resources. If you can provide support – funding, draw prizes, materials, promotion – please also contact us.

Adopt-a-Crag is an initiative of the Access Fund, sponsored by Recreational Equipment Co-op, W. L. Gore, and Clif Bar. In 2005 it involved nearly 120 volunteer stewardship events at cliffs and mountains around the United States, and one in Canada. Adopt-a-Crag is now a year-round program; by courtesy of the Access Fund, we use the name for ‘non-official’ volunteer events.


B.C. Parks is seeking a new operator for recreation facilities at Stawamus Chief Provincial Park, particularly the campground. Details:

Packages available May 8th - 19th, 2006 (from B.C. Parks at Alice Lake, or - request for proposals # CLE07-017-ES).

Mandatory site meeting: May 23rd, 2006, 10:00 AM, at the park.

Closing date: June 6th, 2006, 2:00 PM, Alice Lake Field Office (13 km north of Squamish).

Contact: Heather Gorrell, B.C. Parks (604) 898-3678 extension 234.


Braesyde Farms will be undergoing agricultural development in spring/summer of 2006. Braesyde and the Dunlops will continue to host parking for Skaha in 2007 and beyond, although the location and arrangements may change. Thanks for this hospitality, which included rebuilding the stairs last year, and the kiosk. The use fee for the area is C$4/person/day, however one arrives. (Annual passes $40, $30 for each additional person in a family after the first, $30 for students with identification.) The fee is mandatory, and helps secure access. Please pay, and be respectful. Payment is on an honour system, but the towing charge for cheaters is $90.

Dogs: Dogs at Skaha continue to be a problem. While on Braesyde property, which includes the parking lot and all land to the top of the stairs, dogs must be leashed. There is a $10 fine for each dog found off-leash anywhere on Braesyde land, proceeds payable to the S.P.C.A. In the climbing area, to quote Skaha Rockclimbs: "Dogs frighten people, disturb wildlife, seem out of place, and the area is starting to be over-run by them. Do you really need to take your dog out there? Dogs are viewed by local wildlife biologists as one of the greatest threats to sheep and snakes, and feature prominently in discussions about conservation and possible closures of the area."

Website: See for more.


1. Ray Peters (1945 - 2006)

Councillor Ray Peters of Squamish died on March 30th. He was a staunch proponent of outdoor recreation in the Squamish area, and put in enormous volunteer effort to create and maintain trails. He often attended our Adopt-a-Crags at the Smoke Bluffs, and was a member of the Smoke Bluffs Planning Team. Our sympathies to Ray's family and friends. Donations in Ray's memory can be made to the Squamish Trails Society (P.O. Box 3530, Garibaldi Highlands, B.C. V0N 1T0) or the Squamish Community Foundation - Ray Peters Fund (P.O. Box 480, Garibaldi Highlands, B.C. V0N 1T0). A by-election to choose a successor to Ray will be held in June.

2. On-Line Memberships, Renewals & Donations

You can now join the Access Society on-line, renew your membership, or make a donation. Go to, complete the form, and pay via PayPal. (Credit card needed.) Thanks for Dan Mack and Brock Wilson for implementing this.

3. Stawamus Chief - Peregrine Falcons

The peregrine falcons should re-appear soon, if they haven't already. Assuming they nest in their usual spot, the climbing closure will likely be through the end of July. It will include all routes from Negro Lesbian to Freeway, fomr four pitches above the ground to the top. In 2005, closed routes included Clean Corner, Sports Illustrated, Cloudburst, Sea of Tranquility, Getting Down in the Brown, Warriors of the Wasteland, Western Dihedral (4th ptich and above), Negro Lesbian, Crap Crags, Slow Duck, Illusion, Planet Caravan, and Millenium Falcon. Open climbs included Arrowroute, Cleaning the Brain, Deadend Dihedral, Time Passages, Black Dyke, Western Dihedral (to the top of the 4th pitch), Rutabaga, Sticky Fingers, Slow Dyke, and Freeway. If you observe the falcons, please contact B.C. Parks at (604) 898-3678, extension 234 - note location, time and activity observed.

4. Binkert (Lions) Trail

The new bridge on the Binkert (Lions) Trail, at the Harvey Creek crossing, has been repaired. Access to and parking for the west end of the Baden Powell/Black Mountain Trail continues to be problematic, with both a lack of parking and the Eagleridge Bluffs protest to contend with.

5. Thank Yous - Volunteers

Far too many to list here, but including all the Adopt-a-Crag volunteers and organizers, the local climber organizations all around B.C. that the Access Society works with, our directors and officers, those who represent us in various issues, and so on. You know who you are - we couldn’t do it without you.

6. United States - Current

See the Access Fund website for a lot on what's happening in the United States - You can subscribe to an e-mailed newsletter, too. Some current developments include government planning for City of Rocks, sales of Forest Service land that includes cliffs, and expansion of Adopt-a-Crag to a year round event.

The Access Fund has joined forces with American Whitewater, American Canoe Association, American Hiking Society, International Mountain Biking Association, and Winter Wildlands Alliance to establish the Outdoor Alliance, representing all self-propelled outdoor recreationists. The Access Fund has also begun to regularly meet with the American Alpine Club, American Mountain Guides Association, Climbing Wall Association and U.S.a. Climbing/American Bouldering Series, to address issues of concern to the entire climbing community. The Access Fund will take the lead and keep the other organizations informed as general issues of access and conservation come up through management plans, legislation or regulation. Each of the organizations will continue to work on behalf of its constituency's needs and mission, but the overall goal is to best serve climbing as a united front.


The Access Society was founded in April 1995. We face many challenges in our pursuit of public access to B.C.'s cliffs and mountains, and conservation of them. Please support the Access Society in any way you can - become a member, make a donation, or volunteer! We believe the Access Society is doing an important job. It represents all those who cherish B.C.’s cliffs and mountains.

We hope this message is useful, and encourage you to share, post and forward it. Our apologies if it is unwanted! If so, please let us know and we'll remove you from our list. If your e-mail has changed, please let us know. (In a few cases this message is a duplicate, due to overlapping directories.) Also, we welcome information and contributions - please send to info(at)

Climbing and related activities are dangerous, and can injure or kill you. The Access Society tries to ensure that this information is accurate, but you rely on it at your own risk!

copyright (c) Climbers' Access Society of British Columbia, 2006.
Box 72013 - Sasamat R.P.O.
Vancouver, B.C.
Canada V6R 4P2
(604) 228-1798;

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