Climbing video - Exasperator Crack

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Climbing video - Exasperator Crack

Post by squamish climber » Mon May 12, 2014 11:33 am

So Crosby Johnston of Altus Mountain Guides just posted a video of Exasperator at the base of the Grand Wall. The first pitch is a classic Squamish splitter and the second has a great zig and zag. Many people do it as one pitch. There has been so much written about this climb online. It’s considered one of the top ten in Squamish. Jim Sinclair and John Baldwin get the first FA in 1960 but the free route climbed today was first climbed by Eric Weinstein and Dave Nicol in 1975.

What’s the consensus. Is this climb marginally easier since the huge block fell out in 2012 at the first set of chains?

Crosby gives some gear beta and shows the technique most use on the diagonal second pitch crack.

And if you want to go way back in time, scroll to the 6:20 mark where Timmy O’Neill talks to Lynn Hill as she climbs Exasperator. A classic Squamish climbing video.
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When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb

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