http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... ber=481328
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... er=1109663
They stashed water and were thankful to have it on the way down. It wasn't nearly as hot when they tried it as it is now.
One star as in, worth doing once
We gave it a go today - started in the wrong spot (too high) and got pretty sketched out on first pitch - 40+ feet up w/ no pro, downsloping dirty blocks and cracks slammed shut, no real way up). Was pretty happy just to find a piece good enough to bail off of.
Just FYI - we left a red dragon cam w/ white sling to bail off.
THIS IS NOT THE ROUTE - dangerous / R-rated climbing!
Get the cam if you want, I would not recommend it.
And the only pin we saw was actually on the approach ramp slabs - it had purple tat on it. The pin described in McLane is actually on the route, right?
I remember most of the climbing being pretty good once you got up the first pitch.
Save a lot of time for the descent. Many, many rappels. Also, the gully eventually crosses the path, but that is not obvious if you get there in the dark ...when you are hiking down scree, keep a constant lookout for orange/red flagging to the sides - that's the approach trail (and it is a bit downhill of the boulder field which is below the 3rd class ramp.
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