Harvey - Pup Buttress

Climbing above and beyond the Chief and Squamish Crags. Check here for trip reports and new routes in the Sea to Sky backcountry
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MikeyG
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Harvey - Pup Buttress

Post by MikeyG » Mon Jun 29, 2015 4:37 pm

Can anyone comment on the "Pup Buttress" on Harvey - quality rock climb?

(Our alternative is to trudge up Wedge, but I think we may literally melt if we do that tomorrow)

Cheers,

Mike G

crazymonkey
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Re: Harvey - Pup Buttress

Post by crazymonkey » Mon Jun 29, 2015 8:01 pm

My two climbing buddies tried this a month ago and ended up doing some sh*tty vertical bushwacking. They probably should have looked for beta, and would have had better routefinding luck if they didn't try it covered in fog. Type 2 fun...

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... ber=481328

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... er=1109663

They stashed water and were thankful to have it on the way down. It wasn't nearly as hot when they tried it as it is now.

BK
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Re: Harvey - Pup Buttress

Post by BK » Tue Jun 30, 2015 9:37 am

Its worth doing. Close to home and great view of the sound. Rock is "good", not bad as migth be expected. I don't remember any problem with bush either on route or the approach. Unlikey you'll find water.

One star as in, worth doing once

thePeacock
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Re: Harvey - Pup Buttress

Post by thePeacock » Tue Jun 30, 2015 3:42 pm

Agreed. Worth doing once. I posted a trip report of the climb from a couple of years ago here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... er=1109663 (also linked to above...just noticed.)

MikeyG
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Re: Harvey - Pup Buttress

Post by MikeyG » Tue Jun 30, 2015 3:57 pm

Thanks for beta - wish I'd asked for it sooner.

We gave it a go today - started in the wrong spot (too high) and got pretty sketched out on first pitch - 40+ feet up w/ no pro, downsloping dirty blocks and cracks slammed shut, no real way up). Was pretty happy just to find a piece good enough to bail off of.

Just FYI - we left a red dragon cam w/ white sling to bail off.
THIS IS NOT THE ROUTE - dangerous / R-rated climbing!
Get the cam if you want, I would not recommend it.

And the only pin we saw was actually on the approach ramp slabs - it had purple tat on it. The pin described in McLane is actually on the route, right?

jstod
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Re: Harvey - Pup Buttress

Post by jstod » Tue Jun 30, 2015 10:53 pm

I believe the pin McLane describes as being at the start of the route has been gone for a few years. When we climbed it (in 07?) we scoured what we figured was the start, looking for the pin… Eventually saw a relatively fresh looking rock-scar with a rust stain below it - looked like the rock had flaked off and the pin had gone with it.

I remember most of the climbing being pretty good once you got up the first pitch.

JS

natsdad
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Re: Harvey - Pup Buttress

Post by natsdad » Tue Aug 29, 2017 1:57 pm

Just climbed the Pup a couple of days ago. There is a pin on the first pitch (in good shape, too) - but you cannot see it from the ground (or at least, I couldn't). It is in the "obvious" horizontal break that you traverse to the first belay and I happily clipped it. We encountered lots of poor quality rock on the first pitch, but better rock from pitch 2 onward. If you look for the chimney pitch and spot the small pine tree at its' base - that is the end of pitch 1.

Save a lot of time for the descent. Many, many rappels. Also, the gully eventually crosses the path, but that is not obvious if you get there in the dark :( ...when you are hiking down scree, keep a constant lookout for orange/red flagging to the sides - that's the approach trail (and it is a bit downhill of the boulder field which is below the 3rd class ramp.

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