winter / spring alpine routes that are good to go

Climbing above and beyond the Chief and Squamish Crags. Check here for trip reports and new routes in the Sea to Sky backcountry
BK
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winter / spring alpine routes that are good to go

Post by BK » Sat Feb 16, 2013 8:03 am

Here are a few ideas for routes that are top quality and are good to go. I can't post pics here so here are links to photos:

1) Garibaldi North face (Kelly / Hunt) WI 2-3, M easy, 9 pitches. Easy day return from squamish with a sled approach up Brohm ridge. Very good intro route to technical alpine ice with super easy approaches and descent, yet still pretty heads up for misc. winter / mountain hazxards.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/threa ... 01&tn=5180

2) Mt Athelstan "Fire Ball" (Kelly / Kay) WI 5, M5/6, 9 pitches. Huge but easy sled approach then 3 hrs to route on skis. Easy descent. Very good quality but pretty heads up due to "just adequate" gear.


http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/threa ... msg2073076



3) Mouse's Tooth - Free Tibet or Rhapsody in Floyd in NJ creek. Unknown conditions, but RIF can last and even improve in quality right into May / June.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... Post856139


4) Tantalus West Face - various couliors, see Alpine select. Heli approach to Haberl hut with lots of other attractive climbing / skiing options.

5) The Lions / Harvey, Ramp route. I'm not sure about literature for beta but there is tons of options from either Lions Bay or Unnecesarry Ridge. Day trip or bivy, depending on route.

6) Husume Buttress on Blackcomb ski area. Tons of 1 to 5 pitch quality mixed with stupid easy access and descent. See Serl's West Coast Ice guide.



Needless to say all the above have significant alpine / winter hazards and are recommended only for those with the appropriate skills. The least complicated / most user friendly are the Lions and Husume if avalanche hazard is low. Spring is often a better time for this sort of thing with some melt freeze cycles and longer day light - enjoy!

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Re: winter / spring alpine routes that are good to go

Post by looneyhans » Mon Nov 09, 2020 5:31 am

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Re: winter / spring alpine routes that are good to go

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Re: winter / spring alpine routes that are good to go

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Re: winter / spring alpine routes that are good to go

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Re: winter / spring alpine routes that are good to go

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