Slesse: bypass glacier condition ?

Climbing above and beyond the Chief and Squamish Crags. Check here for trip reports and new routes in the Sea to Sky backcountry
t-bone
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Slesse: bypass glacier condition ?

Post by t-bone » Sat Aug 22, 2009 7:44 am

Anyone know what condition the glacier is in....has it slid off yet?

pinner
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Post by pinner » Sat Aug 22, 2009 9:45 am

From a trip report on cascadeclimbers, on July 7th:
The bypass glacier, which was our main safety concern on the trip, had mostly slid away. The portion that remained was about 20 meters from front to back and 80 meters left to right. The problem was that a portion was sitting entirely on the 3rd class ledge making that route too dangerous for our liking.
I know it's not recent info, but with all the heat we've had since then I would think it's slid, or not going to...

Dru
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Post by Dru » Wed Aug 26, 2009 1:43 pm

As of last weekend there was still a chunk of ice hanging on right against the base of the east face. Not particularly large, but would kill you if it moved while you were below it.

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Post by t-bone » Thu Aug 27, 2009 3:45 pm

thanks Dru.
Do you know if the Slesse Creek FS road is gated? I read a cc.com post about a 'hidden' key...any beta?

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Post by Dru » Thu Aug 27, 2009 4:06 pm

Not only is it gated but the military police are patrolling and arresting or hassling climbers. I believe you can get a key midweek by special arrangement but I don't know how exactly, Chilliwack MoF office might be able to tell you how. You may as well just come down Crossover.

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Post by Dru » Thu Aug 27, 2009 4:07 pm

Image

From last Saturday...

t-bone
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Post by t-bone » Fri Aug 28, 2009 4:18 pm

thanks for the photo.
I've heard the Crossover descent is pretty ugly...although Optimally Primed's topo details it very well.
I expect we'll be topping out around 4ish so not sure whether we'll have the daylight for Crossover, considering we've never scoped it out

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Post by Dru » Sat Aug 29, 2009 9:17 am

You have all day to eyeball it from the route. Follow the biggest trees down and you can't go wrong.

tendollarpants
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Re: Slesse: bypass glacier condition ?

Post by tendollarpants » Wed Aug 24, 2011 10:03 pm

Anyone have any beta on the condition of the bypass glacier on Slesse recently? I'm thinking of heading up there this weekend.

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Re: Slesse: bypass glacier condition ?

Post by J Mace » Thu Aug 25, 2011 8:00 am

Looked pretty awful 10 or so days ago, this weekend looks hot too....

Maybe consider the North Rib as a safer alternative.

Image

Aug 13

Squamishmonkey
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Re: Slesse: bypass glacier condition ?

Post by Squamishmonkey » Sat Aug 27, 2011 6:15 pm

Yesterday...
View from the base.
Image
View just before crossing to the buttress direct start.
Image
View looking down the head wall.
Image
View at the first gulley on the cross over descent.
Image

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Re: Slesse: bypass glacier condition ?

Post by nerdalert » Thu Sep 01, 2011 12:10 pm

Hi Eric, saw your video and just curious how you got to the toe of the buttress? Did you bushwhack across the meadow directly to the toe or come in via the Propeller Cairn somehow? Looks dicey!

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Re: Slesse: bypass glacier condition ?

Post by Squamishmonkey » Thu Sep 01, 2011 4:23 pm

Hi,
We went up cross over pass descent trail for a few hundred meters and then cut diagonally down through open timber until it runs into the alder, bushwhack for 5min and you will be in the bowl.

As for the glacier, both sets are sending down blocks all day (fewer in the am) so its your call! It is definitely the riskiest part of the day.
Thanks
Eric

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Re: Slesse: bypass glacier condition ?

Post by tendollarpants » Thu Sep 01, 2011 6:48 pm

I was up there on Sat & crossed the Bypass glacier to get to the 5.fun ramp.

Image

Needless to say, it took way longer to cross over/under the pocket glacier than we were expecting.

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Optimally-Primed
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Re: Slesse: bypass glacier condition ?

Post by Optimally-Primed » Thu Sep 01, 2011 10:13 pm

Wow. That looks horrendous!

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