Alpine rock in North Joffre creek

[PAW]

I would be in to donating a day of my time to help upgrade the trail as well. Its getting good but only in a climbers trail sort of way.

Bolted anchors would change the feel out there in terms of commitment. When rapping from top of pitch 3 do a shorter rap to the fixed block anchor to avoid getting your ropes stuck like we did when we went the full 55m to the next station.

[BK]

Thanks for all the feed back and i'm glad that its getting some action. Regarding bolts, I'm leaning to the last posters comments that bolts / bolted stations will effect the "alpine feel" of the whole deal. I personally think that "minimal but not stupid" is the recommended ethic for bolts here, at least for now. Personally i can think of only one tree anchor that may be considered a bit on the small side and it can be backed up with cams easily. Rapping off it dosn't bug me at all.

Having said that, I think most will be happy to hear i just went apeshit with a drill up there and established 2 new starting pitches to avoid the original low quality start. They both follow the arrete on the left edge with a mix of gear and bolts. I haven't lead them yet but suspect they are both about 5.9. Feel free to jump on them and comment. I'm sure you'll find the protection perfectly adequate but far from grid bolted.

Its getting a little chillier and loses the sun sooner these days so take a sweater. The upside is all the snows gone at the base. Thanks you guys who fixed my rope for me.

[squamishbeta]

Can anyone give me the co-ordinates for the location of the route from the BC topo maps 92 J/7?
I assume the turnoff is the road I see at grid 33/78 (not sure if this is the right way to read off co-ordinates!) Large clear cut/gravel pit on left when ascending Duffey lake Road where you would park as for Saxifrage/ Taylor ski trips?
Thanks!
Glenn

[BK]

Glenn, It is the turn off for Saxifrage, Cassiope and / or Taylor ski tours. It is hard to miss as It is the only active logging road turning off of the Duffy on the north side of the road and is located about 2 km west of Joffre lakes trail head. For more specific approach beta see the original post - its pretty straight forward.

[BK]

pitch one on the new start needs a bolt, to fill an existing hole just above bolt 3, at the crux (which seems closer to 5.10 b/c)

Bugs are really bad - bring bug dope

[J Mace]

Updates from Bruce

* when he refers to cam colours in the small size its for the Metolius, when its above orange its BD

I like to place gear and for me a minimum of two big blues for one of the pitches. You can then leap frog them because its that size forever...and I would echo the statement of checking webbing for wear from rodents.

Sounds like its all good to go.

here's some updated beta.

1) Preferred link up if going all the way includes Dumb All Over (C) off the pitch 4 ledge.

2) Spaceman Spliff is totally worth doing, especially the barn burner Spliff-aulator Slot, a barn burner relentless Wild Turkey style slot that is mostly inch and a quarter with not much in the way of feet. An off the couch Damien Kelly special. quads of camalot green and red sizes.

3) A little ugly on the Side (D) is still unsent but seems about 11d . RP's mandatory at the blistering crux pull or two.

4) Pitch 6 is missing the pin but goes with RP's and greys / puples / blues

5) Starting 2 pitches now totally cleaned up and good quality. Right hand is easier and faster.

6) Required rack is doubles from little greys through to big blues, very few wires, a set of RP's. Spliff-aulator takes quads of green and red camalot sizes.

7) Rap route well established but feel free to add bolts for longer life span. CHECK SLINGS FOR RODENT DAMAGE especially around trees!

Trail start is not too obvious but take the time to find it or you'll be hating life! 2 hours to base.

10) Typically 12 hours (+/-) car to car but the car camping is good too.

[Squamishmonkey]

Hi Bruce,
I climbed your route yesterday. We did the direct start - 10d, clean and good pro or bolts. We climbed the entire line clean/onsight including the ridge at the top. I wanted to see how it connected to other peaks back there. Its a long day from Squamish and back but worth it.
Thanks for establishing this area.

For those thinking about going.
THIS IS THE BEST ALPINE (rock) ROUTE ON THE COAST. The splitter head wall pitches are ridiculously good - Imagine a perfect 40m hand crack directly (5.10a) up the grand wall with cascading waterfalls, views of Glaciers and all on granite that rivals the best we have in Squamish!!!!

I reinforced the higher anchors so its good to go for rapping, The only half dodgy anchor is the semi hanging anchor below the roof. The trail is getting traffic and is easy to follow.

Often people who establish lines are wearing "First Ascent" goggles and think their lines are amazing when its mediocre. In this case Bruce did not oversell the line...go climb it.
Thanks
Eric

[Brendan]

Eric,
Which way/variation did you take? It looks like there are a few choices on the above topo.

[Squamishmonkey]

Brendan,
Pitch One: "Mouse that Roared"
Into "Mighty Mouse" with the "Dumb All Over" variation at pitch4
We decided to climb what ever looked best once we got to the ledges. All the variations looked clean
The detailed topo does not show past pitch six but it keeps going for another 5 (ish) pitches but is much lower angle and wanders.

Hey Bruce I forgot to ask?
The Ice line on the right of "The Tooth", which month did you climb it as I went to repeat your line in the winter during the cold snap but is was choked with deep sugar snow with mushrooms....no ice. I'm guessing spring when the melt freeze cycle has started?

[Brendan]

Thanks for the reply Eric, and good job on the send!

Would you be able to briefly break-down the times, as you mentioned it being a long day from Squam. I would love to do this as a day trip from the North Shore, but am not sure how that would go over.

Thanks!

[Squamishmonkey]

Times are approx:
4.20 am - leave Squamish (We stopped for coffee)
7.20 am - parked on the logging road and walking up hill
9.00 am - Arrive at the base
9.20 am- started climbing.
Hid in shady as it was really hot for 20min after two pitches.
1pm - Top of pitch 6, where the water is; great rest spot with shade and running water.
4.30pm top of pitch 12 (ish) we simul-climbed and stopped due to rope drag
5.20 pm started rap
7.00 pm at base
7.20 started downhill
9.00 pm at car
11.40 back in Squamish

As we were driving away another party was arriving and were going to camp. There is a fire ring and running water at the end of the road.
Thanks
Eric

[BK]

Eric so you went to the top? did you carry boots and ice axe or just slither up the snow in your rock shoes? either way the FA is yours!

About the ice routes - there's two, with the most likely to form being Rapsody in Floyd in the huge corner / chimney. We did it in February but I know its been climbed as late as april and I've seen it as 95 % intact last june with a cold spring. It actually looked really good and we would have jumped on it if we hadn't suddenly noticed all those outrageous cracks on the buttress.

It does appear to come into condition better as the spring melt freeze cycles kick in. Its saving grace is that it is completely sheltered from the sun. The other route Frre Tibet is much less likely to survive into the spring as the morning sun nukes it pretty bad. The other good thing about spring is the longer daylight hours making the whole day trip thing more reasonable.

Anyway, glad you liked it the mighty mouse. The south coast is really short on accessable quality alpine rock so this thing is a bit of a jewel. Beats hell out of Harvey's Pup or Habrich anyway! It used to be that the chehalis was the go to zone but the access there has really gone down hill. If you haven't been to nsakwatch spires yet I'd say you'd like that too. Same sort of perfect cracks, but shorter routes and it takes a bivy too. another good day tripable route is the flavelle / lane on Joffre. really good stone. well worth doing.

[Squamishmonkey]

Hey Bruce,
The snow had melted back from the ridge and the going was basically 5.0/4th class! No Boots or Axe.

I climbed part way on the Central Pillar of Joffre a few years ago, the route to the right of the Flavelle/lane but turned around as the rock was really poor/we had a whole ledge collapse on us. Is the Flavelle/lave route way better rock?

[BK]

As per the central pillar: I also remember a less than stellar bottom half. Junk mostly confined to ledges but generally classic mountaineering throughout, so to speak. If ever you persevere to the headwall everything improves - angle, solidity, quality, protection. If you can hold your nose a bit, you may think it was worth it in the end. We rapped from the top of the pillar in which case you leave the boots etc down below. Note that KM's photo topo is a bit wrong - upper half trends more to right than what is drawn on photo. pins required.

Flavelle / Lane is good right from the get go on all counts. No junk. a few thin pins recommended. mostly easy (mid fifth) so a pack full of alpine is no problem. Description in book is accurate.

[J Mace]

It used to be that the chehalis was the go to zone but the access there has really gone down hill.

Keeping in mind that Bruce used to pretty much belay from his car for many of the Chehalis routes...these days,relative to typical coastal approaches, Grainger is a reasonable weekend.

We climbed the South face a few weeks back and the rock was superb.