Peter's New Route at The Forgotten Wall
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Clive kessler
- Senior Member
- Posts: 238
- Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2004 8:23 pm
- Location: Vancouver
the following has been taken from Marc's website:
Chek
Kingfishers Catch Fire (5.8, 2 stars) - Apparently, the route has now been fully bolted, eliminating the need to bring gear to this sport wall. The star rating should be bumped up to 2 stars.
Redneck Shoot-Out* (5.13a - 8 bolts, 15m, 2-3 stars) This bouldery route climbs the face about 10 feet right of Bullet the Blue Car. Finish at a separate set of chains out to the right. (FA Peter Winter - 05)
Strange Days* (5.13b/c - 11 bolts, 22m, 2-3 stars) This route lies between Rock Lobster and Funkytown. Start up a short bouldery wall then chill out on the slab and gather strength; the business lies above. Powerful moves in the steepest section lead to a tenuous, strength-sapping finish. Likely the hardest route on the wall but needs confirmation. (FA Marc Bourdon - 05)
Two-Bit Cop Out* (5.12a/b - 11 bolts, 22m) Climb Strange Days to the fifth bolt then move right and finish on Funkytown. (FA Peter Winter - 04)
The Incredible Journey (5.12a) - Felt to be solid for the grade.
From Beneath You it Devours (5.12b) - Maybe not the 5.12c it was reported as? More like 5.12b but burly.
Passchendaele (5.12b/c, reachy) - Felt to be harder than the reported 5.12b. Having a big ape span helps!
MEC (5.11c) The original grade of 5.12a is still valid if you climb the route directly up the face staying right of the arête. The 5.11c grade reflects pulling left around the arête to rest. Apparently, ground fall potential is pretty low as many people have taken the ride by the second bolt now.
Boiler Room (5.12c) - It was a gift at the previous 5.12d. Too good to be true...
Made Fresh Daily* (5.12c, 5 bolts) - A new, powerful sport route is located immediately right of La Femme Makita at The Crest. This was reported as a project (#41) in the guide and is considered hard for the grade (maybe 12d?).
Highway to the Danger Zone* (5.11c/d, 3 stars) - This new route is the farthest right line on the Shoot to Kill wall. It roughly follows a broken crack from right to left up the wall. Worth checking out.
Weapons of Moss Destruction* (5.12b, 1 star) Reported as 5.11c in the guide, it's probably closer to 5.12a to the first anchor. Continuing above (no longer a project) bumps the grade to around 5.12b. The line on the photo is also wrong. The route finishes at the same anchor as Highway.
Timber Queen (5.12c, 4 stars) - The guide indicates that it is necessary to aid to the first bolt. The proper 5.12c start is to reach to a high undercling. Shorter climbers may have to stack rocks. Up rated to 4 stars as well.
I agree with the grades listed here for your topo.
Chek
Kingfishers Catch Fire (5.8, 2 stars) - Apparently, the route has now been fully bolted, eliminating the need to bring gear to this sport wall. The star rating should be bumped up to 2 stars.
Redneck Shoot-Out* (5.13a - 8 bolts, 15m, 2-3 stars) This bouldery route climbs the face about 10 feet right of Bullet the Blue Car. Finish at a separate set of chains out to the right. (FA Peter Winter - 05)
Strange Days* (5.13b/c - 11 bolts, 22m, 2-3 stars) This route lies between Rock Lobster and Funkytown. Start up a short bouldery wall then chill out on the slab and gather strength; the business lies above. Powerful moves in the steepest section lead to a tenuous, strength-sapping finish. Likely the hardest route on the wall but needs confirmation. (FA Marc Bourdon - 05)
Two-Bit Cop Out* (5.12a/b - 11 bolts, 22m) Climb Strange Days to the fifth bolt then move right and finish on Funkytown. (FA Peter Winter - 04)
The Incredible Journey (5.12a) - Felt to be solid for the grade.
From Beneath You it Devours (5.12b) - Maybe not the 5.12c it was reported as? More like 5.12b but burly.
Passchendaele (5.12b/c, reachy) - Felt to be harder than the reported 5.12b. Having a big ape span helps!
MEC (5.11c) The original grade of 5.12a is still valid if you climb the route directly up the face staying right of the arête. The 5.11c grade reflects pulling left around the arête to rest. Apparently, ground fall potential is pretty low as many people have taken the ride by the second bolt now.
Boiler Room (5.12c) - It was a gift at the previous 5.12d. Too good to be true...
Made Fresh Daily* (5.12c, 5 bolts) - A new, powerful sport route is located immediately right of La Femme Makita at The Crest. This was reported as a project (#41) in the guide and is considered hard for the grade (maybe 12d?).
Highway to the Danger Zone* (5.11c/d, 3 stars) - This new route is the farthest right line on the Shoot to Kill wall. It roughly follows a broken crack from right to left up the wall. Worth checking out.
Weapons of Moss Destruction* (5.12b, 1 star) Reported as 5.11c in the guide, it's probably closer to 5.12a to the first anchor. Continuing above (no longer a project) bumps the grade to around 5.12b. The line on the photo is also wrong. The route finishes at the same anchor as Highway.
Timber Queen (5.12c, 4 stars) - The guide indicates that it is necessary to aid to the first bolt. The proper 5.12c start is to reach to a high undercling. Shorter climbers may have to stack rocks. Up rated to 4 stars as well.
I agree with the grades listed here for your topo.
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