Two new routes on Whiskey Jack Wall

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bike
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Two new routes on Whiskey Jack Wall

Post by bike » Tue Sep 06, 2005 8:44 am

There are two new routes on Whiskey Jack Wall.

Brock-N-Roll 7 bolts to chains. 5.10b It is the fourth route from the right.

Road Less Travelled 8 bolts to chains. 5.10d/11a? It is the second route from the right.

Enjoy :D

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Pete L.
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Post by Pete L. » Tue Sep 06, 2005 3:46 pm

Nice work Marc and Vic.

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Post by Pete L. » Tue Sep 06, 2005 8:00 pm

Hey, some of us have to work you know.

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Post by Pete L. » Wed Sep 07, 2005 8:52 am

I got nothing.

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Re: Two new routes on Whiskey Jack Wall

Post by ras » Mon May 22, 2006 9:50 pm

bike wrote:There are two new routes on Whiskey Jack Wall.

Brock-N-Roll 7 bolts to chains. 5.10b It is the fourth route from the right.

Road Less Travelled 8 bolts to chains. 5.10d/11a? It is the second route from the right.

Enjoy :D
I was up there yesterday, and it looks like both these routes still aren't on the topo, am I wrong? The 10b would be new, seconds anchors to the right of the crach/dirty gully, and the 10d/11a is marked "project" on the topo, right?

Would be nice to have it updated!

By the way, I love the anchors on the 5.8, laugh-out-loud funny to leave the hardware store tags on the the anchor links ("Warning:.... not to be used to support human weight..."! ;-).

Cheers,
Sam

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Re: Two new routes on Whiskey Jack Wall

Post by ras » Mon May 22, 2006 10:19 pm

ras wrote:
bike wrote:There are two new routes on Whiskey Jack Wall.

Brock-N-Roll 7 bolts to chains. 5.10b It is the fourth route from the right.

Road Less Travelled 8 bolts to chains. 5.10d/11a? It is the second route from the right.

Enjoy :D
I was up there yesterday, and it looks like both these routes still aren't on the topo, am I wrong? The 10b would be new, seconds anchors to the right of the crach/dirty gully, and the 10d/11a is marked "project" on the topo, right?
To be clearer, it looks like Road Less Travelled is route 11, marked "Project" on the topo, and Brock-N-Roll would be to the right of Danielle's Throne, and to the left of route 9 "Project" (just one bolt at the start with orange tape, if I recall correctly), and route 9 isn't counted when counting "4th from the right".

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Post by bike » Tue May 23, 2006 2:04 pm

I hadn't noticed the tags when I put them up. I buy the D nuts from home depot. I imagine they all say that at one time or another. :?

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Post by t-bone » Thu Jul 06, 2006 8:00 pm

I visited the Whiskey Jack wall for the first time yesterday - kudos to those who put in the hard work scrubbing and equipping these routes.

I think the topo is still incorrect however...there are only 3 routes right of the project marked route #9. It looks like #8 and #9 should be swapped on the topo.

I also think the initial route gradings are too soft. I'm my no means a strong climber but they all felt pretty easy - I would suggest the following grades:
Plumbers Crack: 10c if climbed direct through the first 3 bolts to avoid the larger holds on the right.
Danielle's Throne: 5.9
Brock and Roll: 10a
Angel on my Shoulder: 10a. Good route
Road Less Travelled: 10b. I don't see how this can be 10d? Maybe I was on the wrong route, but I don't see how.
GoodBye Farewell Amen: 10c. This route had the hardest single move, I wouldn't argue too hard with 10d.

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Post by bike » Fri Jul 07, 2006 9:58 am

I am glad you enjoyed the wall. As for grades, I usually let consencous dictate the grades. Of course there is always debate. :D

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