Dichotomy

[mcgarnickle]

Great new route! Doesn't look like much, and the cobwebs in the crack may keep people from trying it, but you should all try it!!!

Once i figured out the tricky and deceptive boulder problem start and swept out the cobwebs the route really climbs great! I agree with the current 5.12b grade, tho it may seem a LOT harder if you are just working on it, because it is kinda weird at the start. (tip: you don't get to put your hands on that nice shelf half way between the second and third clip). Thanks for putting up the great routes!

The name is very apt, the in your face crux at the start on crimps, and then a 5.9 jamcrack for 50 feet.... couldn't be more different

[5.4 Slayer]

Are you talking about highway to the danger zone? Your definetely not describing Dictomy. There is no jam crack on Dictomy

[mcgarnickle]

Hi slayer, I have no clue what Dictomy is, and I am not describing it or Highway to the Danger Zone (I don't know that one either). I was talking about Dichotomy. Sorry, i know it's my accent right? Dichotomy is the Pete Lindgren route up on the Whiskey Jack wall which was rated between 12d and 12b from what i have heard from Gord and Knox and some other peeps that were up there last saturday. I also checked Gary's guidebook topo for that area, and ya, its Dichotomy.

[bike]

Your spelling is right. Though it is not Pete Lindgren's route. He did the FA. Trust me that was the easy part!

[bike]

Oh I forgot, The concensis for the grade is 12b/c. (Dichotomy)

[5.4 Slayer]

Oh yah. Sorry. I screwed up. You say you liked it??? Wow. I guess I'm just pissed cuzz I couldn't even link any two moves.

[Climbing Chump]

tried whiskey jack for first time the other day. dichotomy was really fun route indeed, but surpisingly easy for anyone with small fingers. hmmm, know any other routes like that?

[bike]

Sounds like another one is going up next to it.

[Clive kessler]

After climbing this route I would agree with the original 12b (not the 12c/d listed in the topo). Even that may be a little generous once you figure it out.

[bike]

How is the wall right now? Did it stay pretty clean through the winter?

[Clive kessler]

Some climbs are still a bit wet and some moss has started to grow. I think if the area gets climbed it will stay clean.

[bike]

Hope so. All I need is for the topo to get out there!?

[Squamishmonkey]

I read these forums but this is my first post.

Firstly, thanks to all those putting time, money, effort and thought into developing new areas.

I climbed Dichotomy today and looked up the grade on line, 5.12b seems a little high....12a tops once the sequence is solved.

Nice sequential face moves.
Thanks

[Clive kessler]

Even that may be a little generous once you figure it out.

I would agree with 12a... but I thougth that I might get a little too much heat.