Smell of Fat Chick (direct finish?)

Check here for new routes information. Post new routes here.
Post Reply
drewm
I'm New Here
I'm New Here
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2016 12:11 pm

Smell of Fat Chick (direct finish?)

Post by drewm » Wed Sep 07, 2016 11:50 am

We just re-scrubbed and climbed Smell of Fat Chick over at Murrin - one of Squamish's neglected mega-classics! (I'll put up some more info soon) Does anyone know whether the obvious direct finish has been climbed? We'd like to know since we would likely otherwise look into putting a bolt in it. Dean Hart (one of the FA party) didn't know about the direct finish

relic
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 67
Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2011 4:45 pm

Re: Smell of Fat Chick (direct finish?)

Post by relic » Sun Sep 11, 2016 8:20 pm

Did you clean up the mega non classic approach to it too? It was kinda wacky.

ikestar
Casual Observer
Casual Observer
Posts: 12
Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2013 6:08 pm

Re: Smell of Fat Chick (direct finish?)

Post by ikestar » Wed Sep 14, 2016 5:29 pm

Having led the route and belayed others on it (early 2000`s), it always was know for the scary run out at the top...being a roof. Since the approach from below sucked, mosted opted to rap in and scope it out and or TR it first.
Always thought it needed a bolt there....a bit out of character from the First Ascensionists considering the bolting that went on in the North Walls during the same era

drewm
I'm New Here
I'm New Here
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2016 12:11 pm

Re: Smell of Fat Chick (direct finish?)

Post by drewm » Sat Sep 17, 2016 6:08 pm

Thanks for the info!
We opted for the rappel approach as the guidebook approach sucks

Alright here's the beta - it's in the McLane guide but not the Select

Smell of Fat Chick (25m, 11b)
FA Dean Hart, Randy Atkinson 1984

Approach from the Murrin parking lot. Cross the highway and walk South a few hundred meters. Take a flagged trail just before the power lines cross the road - this is the trail that leads to the Above the Lake crags and the Valley of Shaddai.
After 5 minutes on the trail you'll see a 30m thin finger crack (Crack-R-Jack, 10c). Here the trail goes up a hill - instead, go 150m straight right below a short broken cliff band. Just after crossing the top of a steep gully, turn right at a cairn to reach a nice lookout point at the top of a corner. Locate two bolts in the moss and build a rappel anchor - rappel to another 2-bolt anchor.

2 sets of cams from .2 to .5, a 75 and a set of nuts will get you up it.
The route finishes up through a stellar technical roof that's somewhat bold, but there's also a pretty good cop-out finish that traverses right past a bolt

Here's a blurry phone photo to get you psyched
sofc.jpg
sofc.jpg (166.64 KiB) Viewed 5619 times

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 3 guests