Always thought it needed a bolt there....a bit out of character from the First Ascensionists considering the bolting that went on in the North Walls during the same era
We opted for the rappel approach as the guidebook approach sucks
Alright here's the beta - it's in the McLane guide but not the Select
Smell of Fat Chick (25m, 11b)
FA Dean Hart, Randy Atkinson 1984
Approach from the Murrin parking lot. Cross the highway and walk South a few hundred meters. Take a flagged trail just before the power lines cross the road - this is the trail that leads to the Above the Lake crags and the Valley of Shaddai.
After 5 minutes on the trail you'll see a 30m thin finger crack (Crack-R-Jack, 10c). Here the trail goes up a hill - instead, go 150m straight right below a short broken cliff band. Just after crossing the top of a steep gully, turn right at a cairn to reach a nice lookout point at the top of a corner. Locate two bolts in the moss and build a rappel anchor - rappel to another 2-bolt anchor.
2 sets of cams from .2 to .5, a 75 and a set of nuts will get you up it.
The route finishes up through a stellar technical roof that's somewhat bold, but there's also a pretty good cop-out finish that traverses right past a bolt
Here's a blurry phone photo to get you psyched
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