Phase 1 2016 rebolting initiative
Phase 1 2016 rebolting initiative
Hi All.
SAS has completed phase one of its 2016 rebolting initiative. 016 Reboltingé Anchor Replacement Initiative Update.
Chek Canyon work completed to date thanks to Colin Moorhead (squamish Rock Guides) and Andre Ike (Andre Ike Guiding) ;
Chek.
Circus Area:
· Completely replaced permadraws on Neutered Bovine, Face The Music, and Fleeing Heifer – by far the highest use permadraws in the area
· Replaced a few other particularly worn permadraws of Wayward Bovine and Cut to the Chase
· Face the Music Anchor biners replaced with steel lower off biners
· Replaced several mangled or grossly corroded maillons on various anchors and existing permadraws
· Replaced specific rusted out bolts on Wayward Bovine (3 bolts) and Bottom Feeder (5 bolts) these were some of the last original non stainless bolts on this section of wall.
Forgotten Wall:
· Replaced 3 corroded and protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts on Filth Infatuated – 2 of these bolts were totally loose, we think the expansion sleeves must have cracked. Again these were non stainless that were passed over during our 2010 work because the weren’t yet visibly rusted
· Replaced the remaining 4 non stainless bolts on MEC.
· Steel lower off biners were installed on the anchors of The Reacharound, Got Pull, Creepy Crawlers, Creeping Right, MEC, Low Impact, Filth Infatuated, and Trunk Monkey. Corroded Maillons were replaced on several of theses anchors as well.
See the complete report on the SAS website.
We are planning another day of work at Chek later this summer concentrating on the Crest area and Forgotten Wall areas. If you are climbing in these areas and see spinning bolts (not hangers) and bad anchors we would like to know about them.
Area 44.
SAS has started to change over and replace the Fixe rappel anchors at Area 44 with simpler chain anchors more suitable for sport climbing and top-roping. Fixe rappel chain anchors removed during this work are to be used more appropriate multipitch projects. The Preview area was the first area completed under this initiative.
Blue du Jour. Anchor replaced, 4 th bolt replaced
Nuts and Raisins. Anchor bolt replaced.
Nuts and Bolts. Anchor bolt replaced.
Monkey Barrel. Anchor bolt relaced
Switch to chains - what I did on my Summer Holidays to Blue du Jour.
A substantial amount of time and money are involved in this initiative and donations are always welcome. So contribute to that local bolt fund jar and join SAS and CASBC.
CHris Small
Squamish Access Society President.
SAS has completed phase one of its 2016 rebolting initiative. 016 Reboltingé Anchor Replacement Initiative Update.
Chek Canyon work completed to date thanks to Colin Moorhead (squamish Rock Guides) and Andre Ike (Andre Ike Guiding) ;
Chek.
Circus Area:
· Completely replaced permadraws on Neutered Bovine, Face The Music, and Fleeing Heifer – by far the highest use permadraws in the area
· Replaced a few other particularly worn permadraws of Wayward Bovine and Cut to the Chase
· Face the Music Anchor biners replaced with steel lower off biners
· Replaced several mangled or grossly corroded maillons on various anchors and existing permadraws
· Replaced specific rusted out bolts on Wayward Bovine (3 bolts) and Bottom Feeder (5 bolts) these were some of the last original non stainless bolts on this section of wall.
Forgotten Wall:
· Replaced 3 corroded and protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts on Filth Infatuated – 2 of these bolts were totally loose, we think the expansion sleeves must have cracked. Again these were non stainless that were passed over during our 2010 work because the weren’t yet visibly rusted
· Replaced the remaining 4 non stainless bolts on MEC.
· Steel lower off biners were installed on the anchors of The Reacharound, Got Pull, Creepy Crawlers, Creeping Right, MEC, Low Impact, Filth Infatuated, and Trunk Monkey. Corroded Maillons were replaced on several of theses anchors as well.
See the complete report on the SAS website.
We are planning another day of work at Chek later this summer concentrating on the Crest area and Forgotten Wall areas. If you are climbing in these areas and see spinning bolts (not hangers) and bad anchors we would like to know about them.
Area 44.
SAS has started to change over and replace the Fixe rappel anchors at Area 44 with simpler chain anchors more suitable for sport climbing and top-roping. Fixe rappel chain anchors removed during this work are to be used more appropriate multipitch projects. The Preview area was the first area completed under this initiative.
Blue du Jour. Anchor replaced, 4 th bolt replaced
Nuts and Raisins. Anchor bolt replaced.
Nuts and Bolts. Anchor bolt replaced.
Monkey Barrel. Anchor bolt relaced
Switch to chains - what I did on my Summer Holidays to Blue du Jour.
A substantial amount of time and money are involved in this initiative and donations are always welcome. So contribute to that local bolt fund jar and join SAS and CASBC.
CHris Small
Squamish Access Society President.
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