Ultimately the route will be nine pitches from 25 to 50 metres, and looks like it will weigh in around 5.8. It starts just left of Calculus Direct, crosses Start from Scratch at the first belay, then parallels Calculus Crack for its entire length in cracks and ramp systems just inside the South Gulley. It crosses the apron rap route at the bottom of the first short rap, and continues diagonally up and left , popping out of the gulley at the base of the groove below Memorial Ledge.
From this tree belay, the route is now open for two pitches to its top. It begins about 5m left of Karen's Math, and followes cracks for a 30m 5.7 and a 40m 5.8 pitch, joining Memorial crack for the final few metres before the belay on top. This can be linked into a memorable 70 m pitch with judicious use of slings to straighten out the rope line and avoid drag. Presently it is a straightforward gear belay mid way, but I haven't made a final decision about that. It will depend on how the character of the rest of the route develops.
At the top, you'll need to use the standard rap off to the right to decend to Broadway ledge if not continuing up the Chief.
Please give it a try, and let others know!
I'm really looking forward to opening the entire route to everyone next Spring.
Looks like it's open!
Having done the full route (climbed pitches 1 - 7 last fall) I would highly recommend it for those looking for a nice long moderate. Also a great way to start the Squamish Buttress (or Butt Lite).
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