North Walls New Routes

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DannyG
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North Walls New Routes

Post by DannyG » Sun May 08, 2016 9:08 pm

I am very excited to share two new routes on the North Walls to the climbing community.

Nanook - 5.11d – 5 pitches – Doubles to 3”, singles 4”-6”, small nuts
FA: 11/2013 - Danny Guestrin, Jon Rigg, Ben Stanley, Dave Brown, Dom Ngo, Chris Dinner, Will Kahlert
FFA: 05/2016 – Danny Guestrin, Jon Rigg, Laurent Janssen

Nanook follows steep cracks and corners on the left side of the North Walls. This well-protected route features wild and varied climbing with exciting positions. It was first climbed as a winter adventure and upon reaching the top it was clear this line needed to be cleaned for its free climbing potential.

Take the N.N. Gully trail and start below a partially bolted left-facing offwidth 30 m right of Tall Skinny People (or 50 m right of New Life).

Pitch 1 (5.11d, 30m): Clip a bolt and climb right to gain a partially bolted left-facing offwidth corner to a ledge. Make slabby moves up and left to a thin crack in a shallow corner. At the top of the corner, step right and face climb to a bolted belay on a ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.11b, 35m): Climb the double corners above the belay and move right to gain the major left-facing corner system. Near its top, climb right under a small roof to an overhanging finger and hand crack. Bolted belay at a tree stump on the corner above. Burly and exposed.
Pitch 3 (5.11b, 25m): Continue up the corner through a roof (bolt). Delicate face climbing and stemming past three bolts leads to a steep crack that climbs out of the huge roof that looms above to a bolted belay at a stance.
Pitch 4 (5.8, 20m): Climb the offwidth to its top and move left to a bolted belay at a stance. Those uncomfortable with wide climbing may find a second 6” cam useful.
Pitch 5 (5.10c, 20m): Climb the left leaning gaping crack (fixed piton) to a narrowing finger crack in a clean left facing corner.

Descent: 4 rappels with a single 70m rope. Make two 30m rappels down the wall to the left of Nanook. On the 3rd rappel, rap right to the top of the 1st pitch (watch the ends of the rope).


High and Dry - 5.9, 30 m – Single rack to 9”
FA: 10/2014 - Ben Stanley, Dom Ngo
FFA: 03/2015 - Jon Rigg, Ben Stanley

A route for the wide lovers. The offwidth on this climb stays dry even during the rainiest winter days.
Climb the corner system to the right of Nanook and make delicate moves right to gain the ever widening offwidth.

scrubber
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Re: North Walls New Routes

Post by scrubber » Thu May 19, 2016 4:24 am

Photos Danny! We need photos!

Kris

DannyG
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Re: North Walls New Routes

Post by DannyG » Sat May 21, 2016 10:23 am

Hey Kris, I meant to post photos but it slipped my mind.

Image

Image

Also a few photos by the very talented Thomas Burden (https://www.flickr.com/photos/teacozy/)

Pitch 1 start
Image

Pitch 2
Image

Pitch 3
Image

scrubber
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Re: North Walls New Routes

Post by scrubber » Sun May 22, 2016 6:27 am

Very cool! Looks fun. I've wondered for years if something could be put together around that huge roof. I enjoy the huge white block underneath it that looks like a headless cloaked figure with arms outstretched to the sides.

K

ikestar
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Re: North Walls New Routes

Post by ikestar » Sun Jun 26, 2016 8:20 pm

For what its worth, I felt that the 2 11b pitches could easily be 11c.
On rap I could not reach the last rap station with a slightly shortened 70m rope but conveniently used an anchor placed on the arête by the party putting up the project to the left.
Great route, nice work

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