western harlot

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justme
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western harlot

Post by justme » Tue Apr 19, 2016 8:07 am

Saw a new route climber's right of western harlot, at the outpost (or is it called annex?) . Looks great, any info on it?
Thanks!

Brendan
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Re: western harlot

Post by Brendan » Sat May 07, 2016 3:16 pm


serac
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Re: western harlot

Post by serac » Tue May 10, 2016 5:32 pm

I believe there are two routes on the Western Harlot buttress. An unpublished route is encountered first then as you pass the large tree the start of Western Harlot appears. Dingo is on a separate wall to the right.
Last one dead's a sissy

natsdad
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Re: western harlot

Post by natsdad » Wed May 11, 2016 10:36 am

Hi,

I *believe* that this was the site of an accident last summer:

http://www.piquenewsmagazine.com/whistl ... id=2657258

But my memory is so-so, it might have been another crag at the Outpost. In any event, it might be prudent to check all holds before pulling hard on them.

cheers,
Steve

asc
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Re: western harlot

Post by asc » Wed May 11, 2016 10:45 am

The climb to the right of Wester Harlot is called 100-Zulu but is not quite ready open to the masses yet. We still have to do some cleaning and there are some loose flakes that have to be barred off. A set of anchors also has to be moved to make it safer. Currently if you fall you could end up in space below the roof, requiring good knowledge of rope rescue to remedy the issue.

The climb is a super fun, varied and wildly exposed 3 pitch 10a/b. The exact grades are still to be determined but it roughly goes at 5.9+, 5.10a+, 5.9 with a 5.3 connection into the last pitch of WH. When we did the FA last fall we realized it was not fully finished yet.

With a bit of luck it will be done in about a month. We will pull the fixed rope, and post a topo when it is finished. Until then please stay off it for your safety and those below you. Thx

On another note the road has been improved to for about 1km beyond the Check parking. It is accessible with a high clearance 2WD/AWD or most true 4x4's. this cuts 20 minutes off the approach. There is new logging tape up there so be sure to park off the road.

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