Names of new(ish) routes at Neat and Cool (Smoke Bluffs)?

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dagibbs
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Names of new(ish) routes at Neat and Cool (Smoke Bluffs)?

Post by dagibbs » Fri Sep 04, 2015 9:50 am

I was climbing at Smoke Bluffs last week -- at Neat and Cool. I noticed a couple routes had been cleaned on the lower section (below Cat Crack ledge) which is climbed by Pink Flamingo.

One appears to start up the same dyke as Pink Flamingo, then when the dyke splits (the narrower section continues upwards as Pink Flamingo), it follows the wider section left and up, reaching some cracks on the left arete of the small buttress. Has a two-bolt anchor at the top, with hangars but not lower-offs/chains. I climbed it, and it seemed to go at about 5.6 (trad).

On the right side of this same buttress is another cleaned climb. Didn't climb it, though, so no idea on the grade.

(Neither is mentioned in the Squamish Select, 2012 edition, 3rd printing which is what I have.)

Anyone have any idea as to names and consensus grades on these?

Thanks.

dagibbs
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Re: Names of new(ish) routes at Neat and Cool (Smoke Bluffs)

Post by dagibbs » Sat Sep 05, 2015 5:27 pm

Given I have a Blackberry, the app is unlikely to work for me. (And, who knows if I'll be back to Squamish any time in the near future.) I'm just curious on the name, as I like to record the climbs I do. And a name is much better than "that un-described in my guidebook route that is left of Pink Flamingo".

marc_leclerc
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Re: Names of new(ish) routes at Neat and Cool (Smoke Bluffs)

Post by marc_leclerc » Sun Sep 06, 2015 2:59 pm

I don't know the name, but the offwidth on the right is 5.6 or 5.7. I think Brownie soloed the first recorded ascent but it was likely climbed long before... Good fun.

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Re: Names of new(ish) routes at Neat and Cool (Smoke Bluffs)

Post by ealehnen » Sun Sep 06, 2015 5:35 pm

The route to the left of Pink Flamingo, is called Barefoot in China. It starts at the left edge of the rock, (not the same start as pink flamingo), and jogs further left at the top.
To the immediate right of pink flamingo, the wide groove climb is called Who Needs Apps. 5.8 ish.
The next one to the right goes up the think seam, 10c, On My Way To The Liquor Store.
Then the wide off width at the right end is The Little Baby, 5.8

hevyduty
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Re: Names of new(ish) routes at Neat and Cool (Smoke Bluffs)

Post by hevyduty » Mon Sep 07, 2015 10:38 am

Hevy here! the route is called Barefootin in ChinaTown, its a tune by an old Jazz / R/B artist called Lester Young. When u start the the route theres a tricky move lowdown its 5.9,hope this helps you cheers Hevy.

Dru@Work
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Re: Names of new(ish) routes at Neat and Cool (Smoke Bluffs)

Post by Dru@Work » Tue Sep 08, 2015 8:39 am

Some of these routes show up as being done on the old topo in the '85 Campbell guide but were not named at the time.

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Re: Names of new(ish) routes at Neat and Cool (Smoke Bluffs)

Post by hevyduty » Tue Sep 08, 2015 4:16 pm

Hi Dru ! In my new guide it mentions the fact that it was unnamed and the names of the first acensionists are unknown! Ive also re-cleaned a chimney to the right of Strawberry Jam, that is also to be found in the Campbell guide as a route. I named it the Inchworm .This summer I re-cleaned nine pitches at Neat and Cool, Mr B re-cleaned two and in the process seven new routes where also climbed. The hardware has also been upgraded on all the popular climbs enjoy Hevy !

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Re: Names of new(ish) routes at Neat and Cool (Smoke Bluffs)

Post by Dru@Work » Wed Sep 09, 2015 8:38 am

Thanks for cleaning these up Hevy. In the past (around 10-15 years ago) the routes to immediate left and right of PF were definitely climbable, even though mossy, but they just got dirtier since then. I think I did the one on the left twice back then. I'm sure they will be more popular now they are clean.

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Re: Names of new(ish) routes at Neat and Cool (Smoke Bluffs)

Post by natsdad » Wed Sep 09, 2015 9:13 am

hevyduty wrote:Hi Dru ! In my new guide it mentions the fact that it was unnamed and the names of the first acensionists are unknown!
Hi Hevy:

Thanks for all the work you've done and continue to do around the bluffs. How can one acquire your new guide? Is it available yet?

cheers,
Steve

dagibbs
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Re: Names of new(ish) routes at Neat and Cool (Smoke Bluffs)

Post by dagibbs » Thu Sep 10, 2015 9:54 am

ealehnen wrote:The route to the left of Pink Flamingo, is called Barefoot in China. It starts at the left edge of the rock, (not the same start as pink flamingo), and jogs further left at the top.
To the immediate right of pink flamingo, the wide groove climb is called Who Needs Apps. 5.8 ish.
The next one to the right goes up the think seam, 10c, On My Way To The Liquor Store.
Then the wide off width at the right end is The Little Baby, 5.8
Thanks for the info.

Sounds like I created my own link-up by starting on Pink Flamingo then traversing in to Barefoot in China. The combination felt like it went around 5.6.

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