A few new routes in the Valley of Shaddai (south entrance)

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SaucyWizard
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A few new routes in the Valley of Shaddai (south entrance)

Post by SaucyWizard » Tue Jul 28, 2015 7:24 pm

Best approached from Goat Ridge drive. Please enter with caution through this access area since construction is still in progress...At the moment one must hike past a gate and walk for 1km down the newly paved road till a visible power line trail can be taken. The first crag can easily be seen 7 minutes or so down the trail which I would like to name **Chenchenstway** which in Squamish nation = helping each other out.

Lookers left is a route called **Wild Onions** 5.9
new_route_wild_onions.jpg
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And to the right a route is a project still...I would like to name it **Thin-necked Giant** if possible but I must man up to finish red-pointing it first. 5.11D me thinks
thin-necked giant.jpg
thin-necked giant.jpg (973.24 KiB) Viewed 9365 times
p.s no fixed hardware has been installed at all but both can be climbed still at your own risk

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gnarnaphobe
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Re: A few new routes in the Valley of Shaddai (south entranc

Post by gnarnaphobe » Sat Sep 26, 2015 10:48 pm

Nice work opening a new area.

That crack in the second picture looks amazing! Has it been red pointed yet?

Has anyone else been out in this area? There seems to be tons of potential.

LC
Imaging how much funner this could be with booze and explosives

SaucyWizard
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Re: A few new routes in the Valley of Shaddai (south entranc

Post by SaucyWizard » Sun Sep 27, 2015 12:46 am

I certainly haven't redpointed it yet...although I have put significant energy (7 days) trying. Plagued by injury even as I was attempting redpoint, the route has thwarted my efforts so far. Im certainly open to others climbing it before myself if they so wish and take the first ascent. . I feel as though no bolts should be added because natural protection is adaquate unless at the anchor, which for the present moment, is two bomber nuts fyi. A friend and I have envisioned potentially a harder face climb just left of the splitter also on very high quality rock.

In other news there is also an entrance highball boulder to this area with a v4/v5 open arrete project.
Also about another 5 minutes into the valley from this initial wall, another crag has been found which can be seen in the included picture...this has been an eye opening experience happening upon this great rock.
new_zone.jpg
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