new climb on shannon falls crag above cardhu/kalanie cracks

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JMSclimber
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new climb on shannon falls crag above cardhu/kalanie cracks

Post by JMSclimber » Sun Jun 14, 2015 7:59 pm

New multi pitch on Shannon fallls
Name: (to be determined)
FA: Jean-marc Savoie, Ryan Larkin, Paul Greenwood.
Prep: Jm, ryan, frenchie, mike, paul
Location: Shannon falls main crag above Cardhu crack (Cardhu is the 1st pitch)
Number of pitches: 6 pitches
Grade: 5.11a
Time commitment: grade 1
Type of climbing: mixed (mostly trad with a few bolts)
Equipment: bolted belays, double cams up to BD #2, single rack of micros down to metolius 0.
Descent: walk down the trail (right turn) or go to Shannon pools if its hot (left turn). Rappel down with double ropes.
Discovery: the idea of investigating this area for route potential came about during a conversation with Brian at ClimbOn. He figured there would be a multi pitch route above Kalanie crack. These cracks looked to have an intimidating amount of cleaning. The line I found above Cardhu had a more reasonable amount of cleaning. With about 5 full days of cleaning the route finally came together.
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JMSclimber
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Re: new climb on shannon falls crag above cardhu/kalanie cra

Post by JMSclimber » Thu Jul 02, 2015 5:00 pm

The name to new route is "charlottes ride to the sky"! Enjoy!

natsdad
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Re: new climb on shannon falls crag above cardhu/kalanie cra

Post by natsdad » Wed Jul 15, 2015 7:56 am

JMSclimber wrote:The name to new route is "charlottes ride to the sky"! Enjoy!
Hi all:

Late yesterday, my friend Wes and I climbed Charlotte's Ride to the Sky and "enjoy" we did!

People: hop in this great multi-pitch. It is varied and thought-provoking, with good protection, nice belay stances, fabulous views and the wonderful ambiance of Shannon Falls. If you are not a 5.11a leader, don't worry about P4 - you can easily aid through the thin section (bring lots of TINY gear..RPs, etc.). If you do lead in the elevens (and up), you will dig this very technical, balance-y pitch.

We found the grading to be pretty accurate, although my partner and I thought that the last pitch was a bit harder than noted in the route description (maybe 5.8 or 5.9 instead of 5.7 ?? ). It would be great to have other folks try it and give their opinion.

Many thanks to Jean-marc and his crew for putting up a quality moderate multi-pitch route.

cheers,
Steve

JMSclimber
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Re: new climb on shannon falls crag above cardhu/kalanie cra

Post by JMSclimber » Sat Sep 12, 2015 8:32 am

I have recently added a bolt to the last pitch of the route, right off the ground where theres a committing move with no pro. This maintains the flow of the route in terms of adequate protection throughout! This was in reference to feedback from multiple climbers who have tried the route thus far. Enjoy!

SGB
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Re: new climb on shannon falls crag above cardhu/kalanie cra

Post by SGB » Fri Sep 30, 2016 7:57 pm

Hopped onto this route today with Angus
Great half day choice and thanks to developers for uncovering this gem
We thought grades were bang on
The 11a was wet unfortunately midway(right of crack)and we had to aid for 15 ft but enjoyed the upper crack and slab. Everything else was dry. We figured this pitch with aid was 10b
Took us 4.5 h with rappel
We only needed one 70m rope. Knot yer ends.

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