An abandoned Barley route in the penny lane gully has been rediscovered by myself and Ryan Davy. Whilst walking in the smokey bluffs the wildly off kilter ramp caught my eye. I excitedly pointed it out and ran up to the base to get a better look. In all the hundred or thousands of times either of us had walked up the iconic log-stairs of the Penny Lane gully we could not recall ever noticing the line. Once I had scrambled up into the massive chimney which the route climbs in I noticed a mysterious line of studs leading up the feature. Someone else had been here...
Original Ascent: Robin Barley 5.something A0
Scramble up blocky rock to first bolt and roll onto the hanging ramp. Balance wildly upwards with some difficulty to a good rest then boulder into an alcove and a final short corner...
5.11d, 30m, 8 quickdraws
Lowering back down the gully is fine if one stays out of the loose rock in the depths.
Optional belay on ledge to climbers right of the top of the route.
Sling anchor long if toproping.
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