New Route left of the Squaw

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mcsorley
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New Route left of the Squaw

Post by mcsorley » Mon Sep 29, 2014 10:48 pm

On a feature in between "Fogducker" and "Dogzilla" dubbed The Pulpit, Will Stanhope and I have established a route called "The Industry Standard." It climbs like a heavy hitting version of the AK Highway. Many thanks to all the brothers who helped me out over the last several years to complete this project: Ross Berg, Jason Kruk,Conny Amelunxen,Tony Richardson, Chris Geisler, Colin Moorhead, Charlie Long, Jorge Ackerman, Crosby Johnston, Jamie Selda, Luke Neufeld and anybody else I've forgotten.
The route is continuously overhanging (except the last pitch) so it stays dry in the rain but seeps in spring and early summer. Despite lots of cleaning the steep stone remains gritty, dirty and hollow in places, so if you like complaining, stay home or go to the gym. If you like wild, burly adventurous crack climbing, step right up.
One anchor bolt at the top of P1 is a spinner (to be replaced) and can be backed up to belay that pitch.
Attachments
Pulpit.jpg
Pulpit.jpg (154.68 KiB) Viewed 3713 times
P9292659.JPG
P9292659.JPG (161.43 KiB) Viewed 3713 times
-1.jpg
Will onsighting the crux pitch
-1.jpg (42.92 KiB) Viewed 3713 times

TravisMcC
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Re: New Route left of the Squaw

Post by TravisMcC » Mon Jul 06, 2015 10:29 am

I thought I'd give this route a quick bump as it deserves more traffic. It is a great and wild line. Every pitch is fun and engaging... and also none are a gimmie. There are also some surprising crux moves where you would not expect!

Some quick comments:

The rock is still a bit crumbly, but I think this will clean up nicely once it sees a few more accents. This is most noticeable on P1, which has some larger questionable blocks; be careful on what you yard up on at the start.

We did not use a #6 on P1, as suggested by the topo. You can easily climb it safely to a #4. We used the #5 on P2, but I could see it being optional by a solid 5.11 climber.

We did a single rope rappel from the top to the end of P4. From there, we did two double rope rappels to the base.

Thanks for all of the hard work creating this line!

Here is a shot of P2:
Image

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