Chargex trad 10- 35M .Climb the easy corner left of gords block traverse right on big ledges to a corner crack.Follow this then climb over blocks and flakes till the killer tight hands crack on the upper wall is reached,good jams lead to a. tricky exit left (Crux)in a real exposed position.An awesome route!!
The next route is is a new long mixed climb.La Tercera Edad climbed by myself and B Moorhead.the name means The third age! .Im informed that in spanish its impolite to refer to old people as old people.Saying that between me and Brian we have 137 years! La Tercera Edad 30m 5/10 mixed 4bolts +single rack,6draws +long slings ,be careful of ropedrag . I think its a modern S.Bluffs classic but I'm biased,let me know!
La Tercera Edad- Start on the newly cleaned wall to the left of Gords block ,go straight up past a bolt,move over the bulge then up right to a crack ,move right ,bolt to the centre of the face straight up past 2 bolts (crux) climb over blocks to a short hand crack to reach rap anchors!! One 30m rap gets u down with about 1m to spare
One last thing the routes are in the shade till one ,and when it cools down they get full PM sun . Cheers Hevy
Btw, you can just about barely lower the leader down to the lower anchor.. About 61 metres.
The shorter, new cleanup to the right was quite nice as well.. A couple of 5.7/8s, well worth doing.
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