cragX update

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hevyduty
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cragX update

Post by hevyduty » Sat Sep 06, 2014 11:05 am

Just bit of info on Crag X I'm in the process of cleaning the right side of the crag . Im about 80% done hopefully finished by the end of Sept !.As of today two routes are good to go,ones a reno and ones new.Chargex is an old Jim Cambell route and is well worth doing.

Chargex trad 10- 35M .Climb the easy corner left of gords block traverse right on big ledges to a corner crack.Follow this then climb over blocks and flakes till the killer tight hands crack on the upper wall is reached,good jams lead to a. tricky exit left (Crux)in a real exposed position.An awesome route!!

The next route is is a new long mixed climb.La Tercera Edad climbed by myself and B Moorhead.the name means The third age! .Im informed that in spanish its impolite to refer to old people as old people.Saying that between me and Brian we have 137 years! La Tercera Edad 30m 5/10 mixed 4bolts +single rack,6draws +long slings ,be careful of ropedrag . I think its a modern S.Bluffs classic but I'm biased,let me know!

La Tercera Edad- Start on the newly cleaned wall to the left of Gords block ,go straight up past a bolt,move over the bulge then up right to a crack ,move right ,bolt to the centre of the face straight up past 2 bolts (crux) climb over blocks to a short hand crack to reach rap anchors!! One 30m rap gets u down with about 1m to spare

One last thing the routes are in the shade till one ,and when it cools down they get full PM sun . Cheers Hevy :mrgreen:

hevyduty
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Re: cragX update

Post by hevyduty » Sat Sep 06, 2014 1:22 pm

here's a shot of climber on the crux of newly reno'd ChargeX…

Image

Don
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Re: cragX update

Post by Don » Mon Feb 23, 2015 7:55 pm

La Tercera Edad! Nice route, Hevy and Brian! Modern classic, perhaps, indeed :P
Btw, you can just about barely lower the leader down to the lower anchor.. About 61 metres.
The shorter, new cleanup to the right was quite nice as well.. A couple of 5.7/8s, well worth doing.

Thanks again!

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