New route at Ferys Wheel cliff

[marc_leclerc]

Today my lady friend, Brette Harrington finished a line she had been scrubbing in Gonzales creek for a while. The new route is about 10 or 15 meters left of The Perfect Wife and would be pretty hard to miss.

Vanguardia, 5.12c - Climb a moderate shallow corner and overlap features then move into more sustained climbing with several bolts to reach the striking hanging corner. Thin laybacking, glassy stemming and bouldery moves protected by small wires (one bolt) eventually eases off into a final chimney flare and the anchor.

Bring a single set of cams to #1, although Brette used two .75's. blue alien or purple TCU is key as well as a selection of RP's. A mis-placed bolt was skipped on the FA and will be removed shortly.

The line sat dormant most of the season after she finished cleaning it, but she did it 2nd go today on lead. It looks pretty classic to me although I didn't try it cuz I was all tired from top rope hang dogging and various other excuses. Luke NC gave it a shot though and whipped a couple times so it must be tricky

M-A


photos of the business