New Rogues Routes

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Peter
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New Rogues Routes

Post by Peter » Sat Aug 23, 2014 8:44 am

Some new routes have been added to the upper Rogues area:

Where the trail splits to go to Fitness World (right) and This Bud's for you (left) there are three climbs at "King's Landing":
The Hand of the King 10d
Start out an alcove and straight up through blocks and a partial crack, pull a bulge.
The Kingsgaurd 11b
Same start but branch right from the jugs and then straight up the face.
The Kingslayer 12d?
The arete. BOULDERY!, stick clip #2 if you want. After the first 3 bolts or so it really mellows out and climbs a super fun arete. You could link Kingsgaurd into the upper arete of this route too....
All 3 P.Winter

At the Bighouse, Action Jackson was cleaned up and extended by Colin Moorhead to make a fun and technical 11b. Further left of the Bighouse (go past Ty Man & Looks could kill), Colin added to cool 12 a/b's: The Conjuring (right) and Windwalker (left). I think the Conjuring is the harder of the two, both are really good and are steeper than they look.

dakine
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Re: New Rogues Routes

Post by dakine » Fri Aug 29, 2014 6:19 pm

We were up a few weeks ago. all the new routes are quality and fun! Action jackson is a steller route now!
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DJ 1%

PStreet
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Re: New Rogues Routes

Post by PStreet » Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:26 pm

Hi Pete,

You guys missed the best route on the wall, and maybe the best 11a at Rogues or Chek! Start as per the Kingsguard, but trend right on jugs to the arete and straight up the arete from there. The bolts are perfectly placed for this and it makes the very nice arete accessible to mortals like myself and Paul Schofelt who I climbed it with. I guess you might call it "Off with the Guards Head"!

Anyway, thanks for your work at Rogues, it fills out an already great area nicely!

Paul.

tobyfk
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Re: New Rogues Routes

Post by tobyfk » Wed Jul 08, 2015 7:50 am

Pete is already aware of that link-up. He pointed me at it a month or so ago.

Peter
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Re: New Rogues Routes

Post by Peter » Thu Jul 09, 2015 11:35 am

"You could link Kingsgaurd into the upper arete of this route too...." Yes, has been done already Paul. No FA for you! :wink: :)

PStreet
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Re: New Rogues Routes

Post by PStreet » Mon Jul 13, 2015 2:42 pm

Well maybe this will get a few more folks back there to try the routes. Again, thanks for the effort.

Peter
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Re: New Rogues Routes

Post by Peter » Wed Jul 22, 2015 9:09 pm

New route up by Fitness World.
The Tumbler
12C (unconfirmed, might be soft, might not be)
P.Winter July '15
Do Glam Rock and then continue above the anchors. Takes the arete left of Fitness World. There is a tough clip in the crux, so there is a black and white perma draw there, but not on a quick link, so please don't take it. The route is fun and steep and still all ticked up so go get on it. Use longer draws if you have them.
Also, with Marc's permission, a bolt has been added to the finishing traverse of Glam Rock.

tobyfk
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Re: New Rogues Routes

Post by tobyfk » Fri Jul 24, 2015 9:43 am

Peter wrote:New route up by Fitness World.
The Tumbler
12C (unconfirmed, might be soft, might not be)
P.Winter July '15
Is the name a reference to your trajectory after slipping off Glam Rock before clipping the first bolt? :roll:

Peter
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Re: New Rogues Routes

Post by Peter » Sat Aug 01, 2015 3:15 pm

Maybe

tsouth
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Re: New Rogues Routes

Post by tsouth » Tue Aug 18, 2015 9:43 pm

Second the awesomeness of action jackson at 11b it's stellar.
The conjuring is a decent route too but I don't think it merits the 5-star rating it got in the update. The conjuring definitely has a hard to clip second bolt that a stick clip is nice for depending on your personal ethics.
Still life around the corner looks sweet and now according to the newest update is 5 stars. Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to try it.
I didn't get a chance to try any of Peter's new routes but I'm sure they're good as always.

tobyfk
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Re: New Rogues Routes

Post by tobyfk » Wed Aug 19, 2015 9:59 am

tsouth wrote:The conjuring is a decent route too but I don't think it merits the 5-star rating it got in the update. The conjuring definitely has a hard to clip second bolt that a stick clip is nice for depending on your personal ethics.
I agree on this. It is an odd choice for the five stars. The rock is very high quality but climbing not that special.
Still life around the corner looks sweet and now according to the newest update is 5 stars.
On the other hand this is a superb route.

tsouth
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Re: New Rogues Routes

Post by tsouth » Sat Aug 22, 2015 5:48 pm

Got on Still Life today. It's really a stellar route and I would recommend going and getting on it. Helps to be tall on the start otherwise the first real move would be interesting.

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