The next morning we returned with a wire brush and I led the first pitch, which truly has to be led to be fully appreciated, then I scrubbed the 12b crux until it was clean and shiny like new. After feeling the holds and figuring out our sequences we both fired the pitch and continued up the stellar corner above. Brette managed to reach out and clip the final belay from some tiny feet just short of the final arete, technically onsighting the pitch by most people's standards, and I just barely managed to step all the way to the ledge on the arete seconding the pitch onsight.
As we rapped we gave the whole route a thorough cleaning so it is in primo shape for sending! It is a four star line and we both highly recommend it!
Bring a double set of RP's and doubles of cams to 0.5 BD, and one each of 0.75 and #1 and #2 camalot. Brette placed the #3 on the last pitch because she had it, but its not required.
While the line appears thin and scary we thought the gear was bomber and easy to place and the line does not warrant a PG-13 or R rating. Have fun!
A happy no hands rest on P1, 11a.
Brette seconding P2, 12b.
Brette leading P3, 12a.
Brette on the Façade
Brette and Mark on the Façade
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