New final pitch to frayed ends of sanity

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Rennie
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Joined: Wed Jun 04, 2014 5:21 pm

New final pitch to frayed ends of sanity

Post by Rennie » Wed Jun 04, 2014 5:48 pm

HIAB Corner 5.11d takes the immaculate and awesome corner to the right of the last pitch (heart of darkness) of frayed ends of sanity. Clip a bolt out right from the belay, downclimb with wild exposure on fingerlockers to make a big span right to a jug to gain the corner. Climb the corner via a wide array of side pull, arete slapping, downpalming trickery to reach the jug finish. 9 bolts, a couple fingersized cams for the top.

HIAB Corner will hopefully bring more traffic to this great route, the pitch that preceeds it is undoubtedly one of the best 11a pitches in squamish. HIAB Corner is well bolted and could forseeably go at 11a A0. Also you could use the first couple bolts to escape into the final slab of pipeline at 5.10a A0 if you just wanted to top out instead of rapelling.
FFA Andrew Rennie, Charlie Long, Sept 2013

Brendan
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Location: North Shore

Re: New final pitch to frayed ends of sanity

Post by Brendan » Sun Jun 08, 2014 9:54 pm

Did you forget to post this last year? :wink:

Awesome! Frayed Ends is such an awesome route. Looking forward to climbing this pitch.

marc_leclerc
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Re: New final pitch to frayed ends of sanity

Post by marc_leclerc » Fri Apr 03, 2015 9:29 am

HIAB corner is a classic pitch, highly recommended! Really technical climbing on an exposed ramp, then the best topout on the cliff! We linked Pipeline into it for a full 50 meter mega pitch, there's a perfect step across into HIAB right where the real climbing on Pipeline ends.

Hopefully HIAB sees some more traffic, its a hidden gem up there.

greenerj
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Re: New final pitch to frayed ends of sanity

Post by greenerj » Thu Jun 11, 2015 7:04 pm

We climbed Frayed Ends today and finished with HIAB corner. This pitch is a good challenge with a wild down climb off the belay to gain the hanging corner which then sustained climbing with all the granite trickery. Awesome pitch and good work!

scrubber
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Re: New final pitch to frayed ends of sanity

Post by scrubber » Wed Jul 22, 2015 8:45 pm

Did this new pitch for the first time today and was really impressed! The opening moves down-climbing from the belay looked impossible until you're actually committed to them. The pitch is surprisingly sustained. I kept expecting it to relent , but it kept fighting back. You guys did a great job buffing it!

We made the mistake of trying to link it with the previous 11a pitch, which resulted in a debilitating zig-zag of rope drag. Not advised...

K

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