I have spent the last week or so cleaning and bolting anchors to my new route Shelter from the Norm 5.10-, which will add two more pitches to your day instead of finishing at the traditional tree belay at the top of first peak. Instead of belaying at the Tree, traverse left on the ledge below, approximately 20m (there are good spots for protecting the traverse) until you reach a bolted anchor next to a tree. Pitch 1 is a 5.10- sustained vertical left facing layback (20m), offering perfect finger locks and great pro. Clip a directional bolt as soon as you top out onto the first ledge and follow two more ledges until you reach a bolted anchor station. Pitch 2 is a burly 5.10-,starting with a bouldery move into off fingers until you reach the tree in the crack. Make your way up past two pods until you reach a sitting belay at a bolted anchor. *top out requires a really high step with poor hands, but is well protected.
*ledge traversing to the bottom of pitch one has been dug out but still requires some final cleaning, so be cautious of any organic material
*There is a very thin crack to the right of the second pitch that I have been cleaning and plan to project, so I ask anyone to please respect my work and not climb it until I feel I can't free it myself. Thank you!
Gear: SR to 2". x2 .4, .5, .75
FA: Drew Dochstader, Paul Ludolph May 2014
Anyone else tried this new addition to the Buttress (Shelter from the Norm)? I'm thinking of checking it out tomorrow.
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