Shelter from the Norm 5.10b: 2 pitch addition to Buttress

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d.dochstader
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Shelter from the Norm 5.10b: 2 pitch addition to Buttress

Post by d.dochstader » Fri May 16, 2014 8:13 pm

Hey Everyone

I have spent the last week or so cleaning and bolting anchors to my new route Shelter from the Norm 5.10-, which will add two more pitches to your day instead of finishing at the traditional tree belay at the top of first peak. Instead of belaying at the Tree, traverse left on the ledge below, approximately 20m (there are good spots for protecting the traverse) until you reach a bolted anchor next to a tree. Pitch 1 is a 5.10- sustained vertical left facing layback (20m), offering perfect finger locks and great pro. Clip a directional bolt as soon as you top out onto the first ledge and follow two more ledges until you reach a bolted anchor station. Pitch 2 is a burly 5.10-,starting with a bouldery move into off fingers until you reach the tree in the crack. Make your way up past two pods until you reach a sitting belay at a bolted anchor. *top out requires a really high step with poor hands, but is well protected.

*ledge traversing to the bottom of pitch one has been dug out but still requires some final cleaning, so be cautious of any organic material

*There is a very thin crack to the right of the second pitch that I have been cleaning and plan to project, so I ask anyone to please respect my work and not climb it until I feel I can't free it myself. Thank you!

Gear: SR to 2". x2 .4, .5, .75
FA: Drew Dochstader, Paul Ludolph May 2014

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geary
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Re: Shelter from the Norm 5.10b: 2 pitch addition to Buttres

Post by geary » Tue May 20, 2014 8:32 pm

Hey Drew, thanks for the hard work, it's an awesome way to finish The Buttress (I was the guy who climbed it while you were finishing cleaning it on May 12th). With all these new variations being cleaned up you can make a stellar day of The Buttress now. We did; Calculus Crack Direct - Start From Scratch - St Vidus' Dance - Karens' Math - Memorial Crack - The Squamish Buttress (via the bolted arete start) - Shelter From The Norm. That gave us 6 pitches of 5.10 crack climbing and only a few short rambly pitches.

d.dochstader
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Re: Shelter from the Norm 5.10b: 2 pitch addition to Buttres

Post by d.dochstader » Mon May 26, 2014 8:28 pm

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Here is a preview of P1 layback from the bolted belay anchor. Enjoy!

natsdad
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Re: Shelter from the Norm 5.10b: 2 pitch addition to Buttres

Post by natsdad » Fri Aug 22, 2014 12:28 pm

Hey Folks:

Anyone else tried this new addition to the Buttress (Shelter from the Norm)? I'm thinking of checking it out tomorrow.

Thanks,
Steve

DirtBagClimber
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Re: Shelter from the Norm 5.10b: 2 pitch addition to Buttres

Post by DirtBagClimber » Mon Aug 25, 2014 8:04 am

Hey Steve, it's a really nice corner with some really good locks. Bring finger tape just a little rough on the skin. Go and do it !

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