Bangers and Mash 5.10b(?)

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mattblades
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Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2013 7:19 pm

Bangers and Mash 5.10b(?)

Post by mattblades » Tue Aug 06, 2013 7:51 pm

On July 22 I installed a new sport route on Conroy's Castle at Cheakamus Canyon, right in between "Kingfishers Catch Fire" and "Instant Classic". The route is called "Bangers and Mash" and it is likely a 5.10b. Let me know what you think of the grade if you try it. Climb straight up from the bolted belay (whereas Instant Classic takes you out right from the bolted belay and then up.) 5 bolts.

This is the first route I've ever cleaned and I was grateful to have Jack Fieldhouse there to teach me how to drill and place bolts. And his Makita was pretty handy too.

Bangers and Mash, 5.10b
Matthew Blades/Jack Fieldhouse

enchanted
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Re: Bangers and Mash 5.10b(?)

Post by enchanted » Wed Aug 07, 2013 6:15 am

That was fun, Matt. Glad to help out with figuring out placements and how to install the hardware. It's a fun route you scrubbed up and an obvious line that people will enjoy. Here's a link to the drill we used. It's actually a Bosch not a Makita and it comes highly recommended for our application.

http://www.climbtechgear.com/bosch-cord ... mer-drill/

Climbing Public: If you climb Matt's route and you have a chance, let him know what you think of the grade and what you think of his route. It's always nice to get feedback. 8)

Take care,

Jack.

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