Chebacca's 5.10b 3p at Shannon Falls

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geoffgeorges
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Re: Chebacca's 5.10b 3p at Shannon Falls

Post by geoffgeorges » Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:59 am

Hard to believe this was not done before, has a classic feel and easy to get to. Nice job.
I too was contemplating the move from arete foot hold to bolt. I also noticed the slot below my foot and placed green alien, added long sling to cam on the far right, switched to right foot, stepped up into corner and slotted in a perfect grey C3 which gave me the nerve to go for the bolt- what a wimp. Soon after placed a cam, so one could say no bolt is really needed, but I was glad to clip it.

SeanP
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Re: Chebacca's 5.10b 3p at Shannon Falls

Post by SeanP » Sat Jul 26, 2014 9:38 pm

Hey folks,
Thanks for all the positive responses and feedback on Chewbaccas'. I went up there today and finished up my 'spring' cleaning haha. I chopped the unnecessary and/or offline bolt in the dihedral on pitch 3. I did my best at a patch, see if you can find it! I gave the whole route a brush down, tidied up around the base area and climbed the start variation pitch on the right. It may have been the original line as there is still an old piton in it. Lorne and I felt it was about 10c or d but struggled to come up with a name for it. I've left mallions on the bolts up there but plan to add rapp rings to those to reduce the rope twisty effect
Sean

J Mace
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Re: Chebacca's 5.10b 3p at Shannon Falls

Post by J Mace » Sun Jul 27, 2014 7:43 am

So no bolt on pitch 3 at all now? Personally I thought it climbed really well as is.

SeanP
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Re: Chebacca's 5.10b 3p at Shannon Falls

Post by SeanP » Mon Jul 28, 2014 6:23 am

Hey J

Just the one bolt on the slab now. I have to agree with those who said the one in the dihedral was offline. I really didn't like the rope behind legs situation. Then there is the question of gear in that area. A partner of mine managed to place 5 pieces in the vicinity of that bolt, between the flake and keyhole features (just trying to prove a point to me). I wasn't certain about the security of these features but most of the old timers I have talked to seem to think they are totally reliable.

J Mace
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Re: Chebacca's 5.10b 3p at Shannon Falls

Post by J Mace » Mon Jul 28, 2014 6:40 am

Got ya ,thanks. I only ever saw the one bolt on the slab, so I guess you did the right thing :)

Thanks for the great line

Cheers

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