New Route by Glenn Woloski - Fog Ducker Spire

[squamish climber]

Glen emailed me about another new route, and given the quality he has delivered before, (Photophobia et al) I imagine this one is bound to be popular.

The name itself seems interesting and then when I thought about switching the order of the first word and second word it got me wondering even more. I also like the idea of a spire. Is this real? How many spires are there in Squamish anyway?

Here is the route description sent by Glenn and the topo below. Also take note Glenn included details of an open project on this crag. Someone could snag an FA.

When someone climbs this please write it up. Inquiring minds want to know what this route is like.

FOG DUCKER SPIRE
5.11 / 5.10 A0
4 or 6 pitches
Single 60 m rope
Single rack to #3 Camalot 2x #2 Camalot
Extra, long slings
Approach Squaw left continue up past the Base of Photophobia for about 60 meters, high into the alcove. the Route starts at the base of the very large dead tree.
Pitch 1 40 meters. A high reach to flake then crack. Hard moves past two bolts (5.11or 5.10 A0). Swing out right to a nice crack. Continue up to an optional belay, or climb an easy ramp right to a nice belay at a stump.
Pitch 2 30 meters. Climb the long left facing corner to a large belay ledge. 5.9 +
Pitch 3 40 meters. Climb the corner on the right moving left through a small roof to a wide crack. At the top of the crack, face climb right and up past a bolt to a steep crack. Alternatively climb back across the face left past a second bolt to a belay on the left of the large block for a short pitch 30 meters. (Base of 'Free Dimensional') Otherwise climb the steep crack to an alcove, gain the arete passing two bolts, climb the large fin on flakes above to a belay in a slot. 5.10
Pitch 4 30 meters Step right , climb the hand crack, then begin face climbing past two bolts to a series of broken flakes. Move up rightward to a third bolt, then up beside a large left facing corner. Take the steep ramp/under cling out left , exposed. Reach an alcove, steep thin move to clip a bolt. At this point a gripping move right for a 5.10 finish up scoops , or continue up left on more thin holds for a 5.11 finish. Both ending past a final bolt. 5.11 / 5.10+
6 rappels on a 60 meter rope

FREE DIMENTIONAL
Very Hard crack test piece (slightly overhanging tips)
-Open Project please no bolting or fixed gear!
Start is at "short belay" of the third pitch.
20 meters

[jonny2vests]

The name itself seems interesting and then when I thought about switching the order of the first word and second word it got me wondering even more.[/img]

Its called a 'spoonerism'.

Route looks great, if I get round to it anytime soon, I will certainly write it up.

[al pine]

It does look very nice. Let us know if Glen is still using Barley staples/crap anchors. Photophobia was a great climb, but I won't be doing it again with the sprinkling of staples of it.

[BK]

tom gruber and i climbed it the other day. Overall, nice route and a truly MONUMENTAL (emphasis on mental!) cleaning effort. Anybody repeating it will see what we mean. All ledges have had entire eco systems exterminated in the pursuit of granite . Still a little dusty and scaly but it wil clean up quick.

Glen, if you see this, we have a few suggestions for minor improvements:

1) pitch one crux is good but a bit hard considering the rest of the route is 5.7 - 5.9, some 10-.
An possible alternate start is a 15 foot 5.9 jam crack to the right with a little scrub.

2) link pitch 2 and 3. critical is to AVOID solid red line trending right beyond bolt. FOLLOW dashed red line past second bolt (not indicated) up and left to indicated bolted rap station for belay. If linking, extra couple of hand crack cams required.

3) from above noted rap anchor station, next two pitches to top could be easily linked particularly if a couple of bolts are adjusted in position. Should also chop the bolt leading to top of "project" crack as it unnecessary and leads one astray. Also, maybe another bolt 40 feet up to set you up for launching out of the corner to the right arete. Alternately, continuation of corner needs a scrub.

recommended rack seemed good, save a #2 and #3 for higher hand crack if linking pitch 2 and 3.

This could be a deservedly popular easy / moderate route if route finding and rope drag issues were cleaned up a bit. An alternate "Top of route" exists at tree ledge to right, avoiding final 10 plus top out.


Also: Robin is a bit busy in vicinity of photophobia right now, so its looking a bit filthy

[t-bone]

Climbed this route last Sunday with Dary Hemmons. Overall I think its a very good route with an outstanding final pitch. We climbed it in 5 pitches (as did the party behind us) and my feeling is that this will likely become the norm due to the wandering nature of the climbing.

I agree with Bruce's comment indicating that the off-route bolt on the last pitch should be removed - it's a bit misleading. I'm a bit torn about creating an alternative to the 1st pitch as the 5.11 climbing is quite good and relatively easily aided. There are already plenty of variations to this climb and I fear that yet another will create a bit of a muddle.

Here's how we pitched out the climb:
p1: Fairly hard climbing right off the deck past the bolts (on which I took a hang), and then much easier crack climbing up to the 2nd set of chains. [5.11a ? 40m]
p2: Climb the slightly burly left-facing corner [5.9+ 30m]
p3: Through the small roof on great jams and then a tenous move out right to clip the 1st bolt. Up into the crack and then back left to clip the 2nd bolt and on to the anchor. [5.10b 20m].
p4: Start up the corner (there is a bolt 5 feet above the anchor - not sure why as you have to go out of your way to clip it) and then through some flakes to a very cool move right onto the arete. Although possible to link this pitch with p3 it seems a bit unnecessary and would almost certainly create rope-drag hell. [5.8 20m]
p5: The money pitch! Move left off the belay and into a good, fairly easy hand crack. Clip the first bolt and make some cool face moves to the 2nd bolt. Into the flake and then make an airy step across right. Don't bother with the 10- climbing out right (it should be removed from the topo imho) as the 10+ option is awesome, well-protected laybacking to a thank-god jug at the top. [5.10d 30m]

To me this climb had a similar feel to Photophobia but felt slightly harder. Definitely worthwhile and another excellent addition.

[squamishbeta]

I suggest climbing the route as the topo shows in four pitches for the best experience. The "mystery" bolts you mentioned are clearly shown .I don't know where you where climbing but if you where on route you would have passed right over the bolt you mentioned " five feet above the anchor" (which is for Free Dimensional/rappelling only) After clipping the first bolt on P3 stay right as it shows on the topo and climb the thin crack passing a small ledge, then up the arete to flakes. Maybe you need to bring the topo with you. P3 should be 40-45 m. Other "mystery" bolt on the last pitch is also only used to rejoin the route from Free Dimensional, also clearly shown on the topo. Bring the topo with you.
What I did miss on the topo is to show the bolt that leads to the Free Dimensional base which is the second bolt you see on P3. Don't go this way unless you are running out of steam or gear.
The dirty corner that everyone wants to climb at the base is in a debris path, and seeps water, getting to it to do a few 5.10 moves looks like it would be necessary to do an aid section through a blank face. Sounds like a waste of time.
Glenn

[Mike Teschke]

Climbed this on Saturday, a great route, it looks like there was an immense amount of scrubbing and digging to get this route to the state is in now. Amazing work.
Done in 4 pitches, it went smoothly. I'd agree on the 11a start, not super burly moves, but really tenuous and tricky to the 2nd bolt.
On the third pitch my partner clipped the bolt at the optional anchor then climbed straight up the chimney from the alcove skipping the bolt 5 feet above the anchor. I followed it the same way and would probably climb it this way again. The chimney moves were easy, secure feeling and direct, leading right to the flakes and good gear.
The final pitch is gripping and totally exciting for the grade. I played around for a bit trying to figure out the least scary way to clip the 3rd bolt before traversing right at the big flake, I placed some gear in the broken flakes, before realizing that it was easier to traverse right above the second bolt then clipped the 3rd bolt easily from the right side flakes above. I think this is what the topo is showing. But initially I climbed up the broken flakes a bit too high thinking i could clip that 3rd bolt before committing to the step over... The laybacking to finish is fun stuff.
Thanks Glenn!

[Mike Teschke]

Oh yeah, We started at 2 in the afternoon, the whole route was in the shade all afternoon except the final pitch, though the belay for the final pitch was comfortably in the shade.

[tendollarpants]

Climbed this on Saturday afternoon with Mike in 4p. Great route! All of it was in the shade, except for the climbing on the last pitch. Looking for shade on a hot day? Climb both Photophobia & Fog Ducker.

The last pitch of Fog Ducker Spire is interesting: Mike ended up traversing right into the L-facing corner after clipping the 2nd bolt. I followed up the broken flakes (on the L after the 2nd bolt) and traversed R at the 3rd bolt. I think getting to the 3rd bolt is (mentally) challenging 'cause the gear is behind the broken flake. Either way works.

Long slings/draws are good to manage any potential rope drag on the way up. Watch your ropes on the raps 'cause the beauty cracks you climb up are still there on the way down and they want to snag your rope when you're pulling.

Glenn - Thanks for the epic effort that went into scrubbing this line! Love your access holds at the top too.

[jessejames]

FANTASTIC ROUTE! Better than Photophobia (longer, more sustained) but not quite on the level of New Life. 4 out of 5 stars

The first pitch is definitely the money pitch. There's a bolt above the belay to prevent a factor 2, and good protection up to the next bolt, with some pretty sweet moves. I went right at the bolt when I should have looked left for finger locks, couldn't reverse the move and took a hang. Sent everything else on the route. I would grade the first pitch 11a/b, it's easy enough climbing if you don't get sucked right at the bolt ..

The 5.7 and 5.9+ can be linked; above that, the two 5.10 pitches can be linked as well. On the pitch above the 5.9+, there was an 'exciting' clip. Expect to do a 5.10 move to reach the bolt, take a pendulum fall on a bomber #2 a meter below your foot if you blow it. Safe fall.

If linking the two middle 5.10 pitches, do NOT clip the second bolt (above and to the left of the sketchy bolt). I went straight up a 5.10(c?) finger crack (not described on the topo) and you can then continue up a 5.9 corner. The gear in the corner is a little questionable, but it's easy.

The final pitch is the head crux for sure. A couple of bolts protect fun face moves, but I couldn't figure out if I should go straight up through a short chimney feature or go left to a bolt that appeared way off route, but with straightforward face climbing. I opted to go left, then right to a bolt and then downclimb to unclip the bolt on the far left (even with a double-length runner the rope drag would have been gnarly). Anyways, I'd say avoid the bolt on the far left and fire up the chimney instead. Above the chimney, the gear is super questionable, and the fall would land you in the hospital. There are definitely a few 5.10/5.10+ moves to bust out, gear in expando flakes and a nasty jutting rock below you. Don't fall here.

The climb is mostly very well protected except for those few moves on the last pitch; if you're a 5.10 climber, you might feel comfortable there.

For me the 5.9+ v-slot was by far the crux, but the general consensus is that I suck at grovelly, nasty chimney slot features ...

Rapped easily with a 70 meter, not sure if you could make it work with a 60 at the final rappel was a rope stretcher (maybe I missed an intermediate station). Recommend rapping with one rope not two as there are a lot of flakes and ledges to snag the rope.

Overall, fantastic route and epic cleaning job, mad props to Glenn Woloski

NOTE: Looks like a line being cleaned to the left of this route, on the opposite wall (fixed line), appears to be in early stages but could be a long, sweet climb for next year ...

[JSmith]

I managed to free climb the Free Dimensional pitch today after several trips up Fog Ducker Spire.
Fingers to RP's, runout in the crux, .13+.
It's amazing. Go climb it.
Respect is due to Glenn for the vision and hard work involved with opening this area.

[brownie]

Solid work Jer! Stoked for ya!