New route on Lakeside in the Woods

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tobyfk
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Re: New route on Lakeside in the Woods

Post by tobyfk » Sun May 26, 2013 11:15 am

jonny2vests wrote: Its considered 'safe' on The Grit List
On the "new" Grit List (Jon Read gave up on the original one ten years ago), it gets a "2" on this scale 1: Splat 2: Snap 3: Sprain 4: Safe. As I wrote before, my understanding is that a fall from the crux takes you you very close to the ground, then from the last few moves, which are still hard, you'll deck out.
Lots of hard grit routes haven't had any repeats, and they're just as close.
The quality lines (Equilibrium clearly belongs in this category) and especially the ones with big grades always get attention. James Pearson's The Promise nearby (well, Burbage North rather than South) has had lots of ascents and was rapidly downgraded from its original E10.
... I also used to work for the first ascensionist
And I have climbed a bit with the second ascentionist. And, more relevant: a good friend watched and video'd the second ascentionist's ascent. Anyway ... shall we agree to differ? Perhaps a brit will repeat Jeremy's route later this year and we'll get a definitive answer on this arcane topic ...

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jonny2vests
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Re: New route on Lakeside in the Woods

Post by jonny2vests » Sun May 26, 2013 8:49 pm

thesiger wrote:shall we agree to differ?
Agreed. Are you a Brit then? Maybe we know each other...?

Jon Leighton

slinky
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Re: New route on Lakeside in the Woods

Post by slinky » Mon May 27, 2013 8:11 pm

The real question is: what is now the most bad a$% trad route in Squamish? Is it Jeremy Smith's The Bull or Sonnie Trotter' s Sugar Daddy?

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