New Climb on Tantalus Wall

[marc_leclerc]

Finished a new route on the right side of the Tantalus Wall. This is the first free climb on this part of the wall and is almost entirely new other than sharing some of 'Cerberus's first pitch and climbing a short section of the aid line 'Wrist Twister'. Just for fun and excitement the route was established ground up with hooks, then free climbed after. The climbing is similar to, but generally harder and more sustained than Cerberus, and while it would be biased to claim it to be 'better' or 'more fun' than Cerberus, it is certainly not 'worse' or 'less fun' than Cerberus. Overall an extremely fun and high quality outing. A direct start that will share the last two pitches is still a project.

The climb begins off of the ledge below the popular aid route 'Wrist Twister', approach via fixed lines in the Bullethead Gully. Bring a few cams from tips (blue metolius) to hands (red or green BD camalot) and about 14 draws including a couple long runners.

'Labyrinth' 5.12c - FA - Marc-Andre Leclerc, Luke Neufeld (April 22 2013)

P1- 'Catharsis Crack' From the ledge at the base of Wrist Twister, climb down and left 10ft (fixed line) to reach the start of a prominent dyke. Climb the lovely dyke to reach the left trending flake system, sustained underclinging leads to a surprise crux around half way. Continue up the flake system to a bolted belay, be wary of hollow rock nearing the end of the pitch. 5.10c/d. bolts + gear. Super fun.

P2 - Face climb up and left along a dyke to join the awesome first pitch of 'Cerberus'. After clipping the belay station on Cerberus, downclimb until possible to traverse right along a very thin dyke to the adjacent ledge. From here climb a RIGHTEOUS thinning dyke up and right to a belay on yet another dyke. 5.12b, a long pitch. Fully bolted and fairly sustained.

P3 - Foot traverse right along the dyke then climb directly up the face, passing a hanging belay on 'Wrist Twister' to reach another right trending dyke that leads to a nice belay on a small ledge. 5.11c. Bolted.

P4 - Nervously shuffle back left along the ledge, then make some easy face moves to reach the prominent dyke leading to the top of the wall. The dyke is balancy to begin and bouldery to finish. From the last bolt, climb a slab up and slightly right to a bolted belay. 5.12c. Bolted.

Note -There is a sharp edge on this last pitch, use a sling on the 4th bolt!

Descend as for every other climb on Tantalus Wall. blah...blah... blah

Enjoy!

I'll try to post a couple photos soon, including a shot of the wall with our new line drawn in....

[Peter]

Nice work boys. Was wondering when something would happen "over there".....