New Route on Cacodemon

[JSmith]

Hi all.
I led a new free route on the Cacodemon about 15m right of Creepshow yesterday.
The route climbs a old aid line up a hard face with no pro to a big flake system mid height, followed by a hard bouldery finish to the top of the boulder. All natural pro.
I replaced a rusted set of 3/8 studs at the top but added no other fixed protection.
The new line is called "Year of the Snake". It's 5.13b R maybe X, I didn't take any of the bad falls so who knows?
Here's a butt shot I took of of T Bag on the flake system. The route comes straight up from below.

Enjoy!
J.

[squamish climber]

Nice work Jeremy,

This seemed to have slipped past me without my noticing. Another fine FA at high grade.

Came across this video by Tim Emmett of his go for a second ascent. He takes a big groundfall.

Looks spicy.

[slhughes]

looks hard for 11c, that. you're having a good season mr.smith. nice flick