Teetering on the Brink of Madness

Check here for new routes information. Post new routes here.
scrubber
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 339
Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 9:31 pm
Location: Squampton

Teetering on the Brink of Madness

Post by scrubber » Tue Jun 19, 2012 2:20 pm

Not that there's ever been a lineup on this route... but I thought I'd let y'all know that I rebolted it today. The majority of the station bolts had been done in the past, but only two of the protection bolts on the entire route were 3/8". I replaced all the 1/4" ones, and a few non-stainless 3/8" at stations.

For the few of you who are twisted enough to like this sort of thing (like me), this is one of the best slab routes in Squamish. The position on the arete adds an element of exposure not found on any other hard friction route. That's the "Teetering on the Brink" part. The route also holds one of the best (if not the best) pitches of straight in crack climbing on the Apron. From where you leave Snake, you can only see up to the large cedar growing in the crack. Beyond that is another 40m of hands to fingers to tips, finishing with about 10m of 5.10+ slab to the anchor. Worthy in it's own rite, as a diversion while going up Snake.

I'll add some pictures of my bolt pullin' adventures later. The only casuality of the day was one broken carabiner on my funkness device. That's some serious pulling power.

Kris

J Mace
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 326
Joined: Thu May 25, 2006 1:17 pm
Location: Italy

Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness

Post by J Mace » Tue Jun 19, 2012 2:32 pm

Awesome Awesome!!!!!

This has been on my tick list for some time now, hows the route itself, clean?

Thanks man!!!!!!

jstod
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2008 6:17 pm
Location: North Vancouver

Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness

Post by jstod » Tue Jun 19, 2012 5:26 pm

Awesome Awesome!!!!!

This has been on my tick list for some time now
Same same! Thanks!

User avatar
thebigchin
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 98
Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2005 8:29 am

Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness

Post by thebigchin » Tue Jun 19, 2012 6:39 pm

I tried climbing it 15 or 16 years ago. My partner said she'd swap leads but chickened out as soon as we branched off of Snake. I fell just before the anchors at the top of that incredible crack/slab pitch. When I hit the slab one butt cheek hit and grabbed and my momentum nearly tore me in half :shock: . I had a sore a$$hole for 2 days after that.

I had a similar injury falling off of a bike a few years later.

dakine
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 212
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 11:20 am
Location: burnaby

Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness

Post by dakine » Tue Jun 19, 2012 7:54 pm

I had a sore a$$hole for 2 days after that.
Number 1 reason friends don't let friends climb slab.

It did make me clench as i chuckled :D
DJ 1%

scrubber
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 339
Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 9:31 pm
Location: Squampton

Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness

Post by scrubber » Tue Jun 19, 2012 8:36 pm

Oooo, nasty injury. Kind of a drawn and quartered by slab sort of thing. The route is really clean with the exception of the 10m from Snake to the cedar tree. I brushed the holds in that section today so it's totally fine, just not sparkling. The slab portion seems to stay much less scruffy than many of the other friction routes. I think that's because most water drains left or right away from the arete, so it dries really fast.

Even though it shares most of the crux pitch with Unfinished Symphony, I find the Teetering pitch easier. On Unfinished, the crux for me is manteling around the arete onto the slab where they meet. On Teetering, you don't have to do the move.

For those who have been psychin' up for it, I would recommend doing White Lightening, Dancing in the Light, and Dream Symphony as precursors. They'll get you ready for the runouts on easier terrain that you'll be facing. The cruxes are all well protected on this route. You will never be more than a meter above your last bolt pulling a 5.11 move. You may, however be 10 metres above your last bolt doing sustained 5.9 friction.

This climb is a small step up from the ones I listed above in seriousness, if not technical difficulty. It's a bit easier than Dream On, but similar in commitment level.

K

scrubber
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 339
Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 9:31 pm
Location: Squampton

Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness

Post by scrubber » Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:11 pm

Okay here's the pictures.

Image
The incredible crack. The arete is visible above.

Image
A typical weird station. One 1/4" stainless, one 3/8" non stainless, one 3/8" stainless.

The 1/4" one would be pulled and drilled out to 3/8, and the rusty 3/8" would be chopped, leaving each station with 2 shiny 3/8" stainless bolts.

Image
Some of the original bolts were there.

Image
And some of them had been replaced sometime in the past with 1/4" stainless bolts (1.25" long! eeek!) I'm pointing to what is probably the original 1/4" hole

Image
you start with a few good taps on the head of the bolt to loosen it up, then drive the tuning fork behind to get it started.

Image
Then it's time to get funky. The button heads usually come out easily. The sleeve expansion bolts break about half the time.

Image
The result.

Image
Casualty of war. Gate flutter while funkin' = broken bieners

Image
If there is a chip of the old bolt in the 1/4" hole you're drilling out to 3/8", the carbide tip of your drill bit will shatter. This will inevitably be your newest, sharpest bit...

Image
This is the old iron that came down today. I dropped one hanger along the way, So that makes 19 old ones removed. Several were at stations that had already been updated, so the actual replacement number was 14.

Hope you enjoyed the ride!

K

jipstyle
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 156
Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 2:07 pm

Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness

Post by jipstyle » Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:47 pm

Awesome. Thank you!

User avatar
Optimally-Primed
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 350
Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:04 am

Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness

Post by Optimally-Primed » Tue Jun 19, 2012 11:26 pm

Great work, Kris!
Did you get funds from the CASBC anchor replacement fund?
http://www.access-society.ca/retrobolt

NateDoggOG
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 236
Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2011 9:35 am

Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness

Post by NateDoggOG » Wed Jun 20, 2012 5:09 am

I climbed White Lightning not too long ago and really enjoyed it. I'm really looking forward to getting on those other routes you mentioned as well as this one. Looks great! Thanks for your time that you put into it.

scrubber
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 339
Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 9:31 pm
Location: Squampton

Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness

Post by scrubber » Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:35 am

Optimally-Primed wrote: Did you get funds from the CASBC anchor replacement fund?
No I didn't bother. I'm not currently a member (but should be) and you need to get approval before taking on a project. I may see if there is any funds left in Valhalla's old manky bolt fund. Or just get reimbursed in hangers and bolts. I'd love to put on those Fixe chain anchors that MEC sells.

K

Peter
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 355
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 4:16 pm
Location: Squamish

Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness

Post by Peter » Wed Jun 20, 2012 12:35 pm

Kris, please email me at pwinter@access-society.ca. I'm sure we can help you out.

Peter
CASBC

User avatar
squamish climber
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 694
Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:42 pm
Location: Bowen Island

Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness

Post by squamish climber » Wed Jun 20, 2012 4:36 pm

Wow Kris thanks for the great effort inspirational effort. the splitter crack looks super fun.

And thanks Peter for offering to help fund the bolt replacement. Two thumbs up on that.
Dave Jones - site admin
When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb

relic
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 67
Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2011 4:45 pm

Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness

Post by relic » Fri Jun 22, 2012 8:07 am

Kris, did you take a gaze across to the left at the Grim Reaper? It traverses left from that splitter crack.

User avatar
BlahMatt
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 76
Joined: Mon Sep 13, 2010 8:29 am
Location: Vancouver, BC

Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness

Post by BlahMatt » Fri Jun 22, 2012 8:45 am

relic wrote:traverses from that splitter crack.
Those are just bad words... :D

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests