Teetering on the Brink of Madness
Teetering on the Brink of Madness
Not that there's ever been a lineup on this route... but I thought I'd let y'all know that I rebolted it today. The majority of the station bolts had been done in the past, but only two of the protection bolts on the entire route were 3/8". I replaced all the 1/4" ones, and a few non-stainless 3/8" at stations.
For the few of you who are twisted enough to like this sort of thing (like me), this is one of the best slab routes in Squamish. The position on the arete adds an element of exposure not found on any other hard friction route. That's the "Teetering on the Brink" part. The route also holds one of the best (if not the best) pitches of straight in crack climbing on the Apron. From where you leave Snake, you can only see up to the large cedar growing in the crack. Beyond that is another 40m of hands to fingers to tips, finishing with about 10m of 5.10+ slab to the anchor. Worthy in it's own rite, as a diversion while going up Snake.
I'll add some pictures of my bolt pullin' adventures later. The only casuality of the day was one broken carabiner on my funkness device. That's some serious pulling power.
Kris
For the few of you who are twisted enough to like this sort of thing (like me), this is one of the best slab routes in Squamish. The position on the arete adds an element of exposure not found on any other hard friction route. That's the "Teetering on the Brink" part. The route also holds one of the best (if not the best) pitches of straight in crack climbing on the Apron. From where you leave Snake, you can only see up to the large cedar growing in the crack. Beyond that is another 40m of hands to fingers to tips, finishing with about 10m of 5.10+ slab to the anchor. Worthy in it's own rite, as a diversion while going up Snake.
I'll add some pictures of my bolt pullin' adventures later. The only casuality of the day was one broken carabiner on my funkness device. That's some serious pulling power.
Kris
Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness
Awesome Awesome!!!!!
This has been on my tick list for some time now, hows the route itself, clean?
Thanks man!!!!!!
This has been on my tick list for some time now, hows the route itself, clean?
Thanks man!!!!!!
Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness
Same same! Thanks!Awesome Awesome!!!!!
This has been on my tick list for some time now
- thebigchin
- Junior Member
- Posts: 98
- Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2005 8:29 am
Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness
I tried climbing it 15 or 16 years ago. My partner said she'd swap leads but chickened out as soon as we branched off of Snake. I fell just before the anchors at the top of that incredible crack/slab pitch. When I hit the slab one butt cheek hit and grabbed and my momentum nearly tore me in half
. I had a sore a$$hole for 2 days after that.
I had a similar injury falling off of a bike a few years later.
![Shocked :shock:](./images/smilies/icon_eek.gif)
I had a similar injury falling off of a bike a few years later.
Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness
Number 1 reason friends don't let friends climb slab.I had a sore a$$hole for 2 days after that.
It did make me clench as i chuckled
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
DJ 1%
Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness
Oooo, nasty injury. Kind of a drawn and quartered by slab sort of thing. The route is really clean with the exception of the 10m from Snake to the cedar tree. I brushed the holds in that section today so it's totally fine, just not sparkling. The slab portion seems to stay much less scruffy than many of the other friction routes. I think that's because most water drains left or right away from the arete, so it dries really fast.
Even though it shares most of the crux pitch with Unfinished Symphony, I find the Teetering pitch easier. On Unfinished, the crux for me is manteling around the arete onto the slab where they meet. On Teetering, you don't have to do the move.
For those who have been psychin' up for it, I would recommend doing White Lightening, Dancing in the Light, and Dream Symphony as precursors. They'll get you ready for the runouts on easier terrain that you'll be facing. The cruxes are all well protected on this route. You will never be more than a meter above your last bolt pulling a 5.11 move. You may, however be 10 metres above your last bolt doing sustained 5.9 friction.
This climb is a small step up from the ones I listed above in seriousness, if not technical difficulty. It's a bit easier than Dream On, but similar in commitment level.
K
Even though it shares most of the crux pitch with Unfinished Symphony, I find the Teetering pitch easier. On Unfinished, the crux for me is manteling around the arete onto the slab where they meet. On Teetering, you don't have to do the move.
For those who have been psychin' up for it, I would recommend doing White Lightening, Dancing in the Light, and Dream Symphony as precursors. They'll get you ready for the runouts on easier terrain that you'll be facing. The cruxes are all well protected on this route. You will never be more than a meter above your last bolt pulling a 5.11 move. You may, however be 10 metres above your last bolt doing sustained 5.9 friction.
This climb is a small step up from the ones I listed above in seriousness, if not technical difficulty. It's a bit easier than Dream On, but similar in commitment level.
K
Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness
Okay here's the pictures.
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1150_Vga.jpg)
The incredible crack. The arete is visible above.
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1143_Vga.jpg)
A typical weird station. One 1/4" stainless, one 3/8" non stainless, one 3/8" stainless.
The 1/4" one would be pulled and drilled out to 3/8, and the rusty 3/8" would be chopped, leaving each station with 2 shiny 3/8" stainless bolts.
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1142_Vga.jpg)
Some of the original bolts were there.
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1138_Vga.jpg)
And some of them had been replaced sometime in the past with 1/4" stainless bolts (1.25" long! eeek!) I'm pointing to what is probably the original 1/4" hole
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1139_Vga.jpg)
you start with a few good taps on the head of the bolt to loosen it up, then drive the tuning fork behind to get it started.
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1141_Vga.jpg)
Then it's time to get funky. The button heads usually come out easily. The sleeve expansion bolts break about half the time.
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1136_Vga.jpg)
The result.
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1148_Vga.jpg)
Casualty of war. Gate flutter while funkin' = broken bieners
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1147_Vga.jpg)
If there is a chip of the old bolt in the 1/4" hole you're drilling out to 3/8", the carbide tip of your drill bit will shatter. This will inevitably be your newest, sharpest bit...
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1151_Vga.jpg)
This is the old iron that came down today. I dropped one hanger along the way, So that makes 19 old ones removed. Several were at stations that had already been updated, so the actual replacement number was 14.
Hope you enjoyed the ride!
K
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1150_Vga.jpg)
The incredible crack. The arete is visible above.
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1143_Vga.jpg)
A typical weird station. One 1/4" stainless, one 3/8" non stainless, one 3/8" stainless.
The 1/4" one would be pulled and drilled out to 3/8, and the rusty 3/8" would be chopped, leaving each station with 2 shiny 3/8" stainless bolts.
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1142_Vga.jpg)
Some of the original bolts were there.
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1138_Vga.jpg)
And some of them had been replaced sometime in the past with 1/4" stainless bolts (1.25" long! eeek!) I'm pointing to what is probably the original 1/4" hole
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1139_Vga.jpg)
you start with a few good taps on the head of the bolt to loosen it up, then drive the tuning fork behind to get it started.
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1141_Vga.jpg)
Then it's time to get funky. The button heads usually come out easily. The sleeve expansion bolts break about half the time.
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1136_Vga.jpg)
The result.
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1148_Vga.jpg)
Casualty of war. Gate flutter while funkin' = broken bieners
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1147_Vga.jpg)
If there is a chip of the old bolt in the 1/4" hole you're drilling out to 3/8", the carbide tip of your drill bit will shatter. This will inevitably be your newest, sharpest bit...
![Image](http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/kris425/DSCF1151_Vga.jpg)
This is the old iron that came down today. I dropped one hanger along the way, So that makes 19 old ones removed. Several were at stations that had already been updated, so the actual replacement number was 14.
Hope you enjoyed the ride!
K
Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness
Awesome. Thank you!
- Optimally-Primed
- Senior Member
- Posts: 350
- Joined: Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:04 am
Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness
Great work, Kris!
Did you get funds from the CASBC anchor replacement fund?
http://www.access-society.ca/retrobolt
Did you get funds from the CASBC anchor replacement fund?
http://www.access-society.ca/retrobolt
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 236
- Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2011 9:35 am
Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness
I climbed White Lightning not too long ago and really enjoyed it. I'm really looking forward to getting on those other routes you mentioned as well as this one. Looks great! Thanks for your time that you put into it.
Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness
No I didn't bother. I'm not currently a member (but should be) and you need to get approval before taking on a project. I may see if there is any funds left in Valhalla's old manky bolt fund. Or just get reimbursed in hangers and bolts. I'd love to put on those Fixe chain anchors that MEC sells.Optimally-Primed wrote: Did you get funds from the CASBC anchor replacement fund?
K
- squamish climber
- Site Admin
- Posts: 693
- Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:42 pm
- Location: Bowen Island
Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness
Wow Kris thanks for the great effort inspirational effort. the splitter crack looks super fun.
And thanks Peter for offering to help fund the bolt replacement. Two thumbs up on that.
And thanks Peter for offering to help fund the bolt replacement. Two thumbs up on that.
Dave Jones - site admin
When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb
When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb
Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness
Kris, did you take a gaze across to the left at the Grim Reaper? It traverses left from that splitter crack.
Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness
Those are just bad words...relic wrote:traverses from that splitter crack.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
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