Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall

Check here for new routes information. Post new routes here.
Post Reply
User avatar
squamish climber
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 694
Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:42 pm
Location: Bowen Island

Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall

Post by squamish climber » Tue May 22, 2012 10:58 am

Glenn Woloski sent me a topo of what looks like a great climb on a new wall in the saddle between Slhanay and the 3rd Summit of the Chief. Like Photophobia, which Glenn put up with Robin Barley last year, Disaster Response looks fantastic. Somebody get up there and report back on this climb.

This photo looks like it's taken from the base looking up to the great roof referenced below in the topo
Image

Topo:
Image

Route Description:
Image
Dave Jones - site admin
When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb

User avatar
squamish climber
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 694
Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:42 pm
Location: Bowen Island

Re: Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall

Post by squamish climber » Mon May 28, 2012 8:54 am

Received an update from Glenn this morning on this crag:

All routes open at this wall....

Project at right of wall,

"Master of Disaster" 5.10 + Very nice wide arcing flake /crack joining crux roof of Disaster Response Route. Gear to 4" 2 - 3 x 2" thru 4" Cams. Glenn Woloski, Harry Young

Project at left of wall on arete,

"What was I Thinking ! " ( A open project for someone far better than I) Harry Young , Glenn Woloski
Dave Jones - site admin
When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb

mcfly
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 59
Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2007 8:35 am
Location: Powell River, formerly Squamish

Re: Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall

Post by mcfly » Sat Jul 07, 2012 10:28 pm

Climbed this today... F#cking awesome!
The second pitch is one of the best 5.10c/d trad lines in Squamish IMHO.
The first and third pitches are worthwhile too.
Get on it while it's clean.

Big thanks to HY and GW!

Tenn
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 11:08 am
Location: Vancity

Re: Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall

Post by Tenn » Sun Jul 08, 2012 10:57 am

Yeah. I agree. Disaster response is a great 3 pitch 5.10 route. Excellent cleaning job and really great find. Pitch two is spectacular and pitch 3 is a well protected but burly layback / jam crack. Pitch 1 is a bit gritty from cleaning but should get better with traffic. Get on it!!

Thanks Glenn and Harry.

User avatar
squamish climber
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 694
Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:42 pm
Location: Bowen Island

Re: Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall

Post by squamish climber » Mon Jul 09, 2012 10:36 am

Glenn sent along recent photos from the route. Glad to see the route is as good as it looks.
Image
Glen Woloski leading P2 finger crack of Disaster Response Rout, Yuko Iwanaga belaying.
Photo credit: Robin Barley

Image
Harry Young leading the same pitch with Peter Shackelton . Photos credit: Robin Barley.

Image
Photo of P3 hand crack (before cleaning).
Thanks
Dave Jones - site admin
When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb

hans
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 66
Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:47 am
Location: Greater Vancouver

Re: Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall

Post by hans » Sun Oct 07, 2012 6:42 am

Did this yesterday. Nice route and very clean. I agree that the second pitch was really good with fun moves at the roof.

We did the wider variation as it looked appealing, and was good hands then fists/layback. We had two 3s and a 4, and this was enough to sew it up.

The fingers crack reminded me of Apron Strings.

Does anyone know if there is a reasonable way to get to Slhanay from here, without hiking all the way back down?

t-bone
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 111
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2004 7:49 am

Re: Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall

Post by t-bone » Sat Jul 06, 2013 9:30 pm

Climbed this route yesterday and agree with the other posters - it is a very high quality crack climb. Awesome job to the developers (Glenn et al) for putting it up and, perhaps more impressively, pounding in a good trail all the way up! The top of the climb puts you in a cool position in between the Chief and the Slahanay.

We climbed the wide crack on p2 and it was excellent. I had two 3" camalots and a 3.5" and was fine.
In terms of grading I'm going to suggest 10a, 10c, 10b.

Also climbed the other pitches (Debris Torrent and Aint No Sunshine) and thought they were both good and would absolutely climb them again.

I would definitely recommend heading up there - its a great destination in the summer as it stays in the shade until about 3pm. It can be combined with a few routes at the Pox wall for a great day of 5.10 climbing.

natsdad
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 205
Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2008 12:56 pm
Location: East Van

Re: Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall

Post by natsdad » Mon Sep 15, 2014 8:00 am

Whoa!

Nice routes and crag. Thanks so much for finding, developing and building a great trail to this little gem. We climbed Disaster Response Route (thin crack variation) on Saturday, and then did the other variation and lines, too.

The rock is clean, the moves are great and the protection is all there. We were the only party on Saturday and were in the shade until around 3 PM.

Many thanks to the diggers!

Steve

cganzert
Casual Observer
Casual Observer
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2014 8:58 am

Re: Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall

Post by cganzert » Mon May 11, 2015 4:15 pm

After all of the glowing reviews I decided to head up and check out the route for myself. Really enjoyed the wide variation on pitch two and the pull around into the alcove was a blast! The layback on pitch three was also a really good time, if only it was longer! In regards to the question about access to slahanny (squaw), this is an assumption but earlier this year I hiked up to doobie point to camp overnight with some buddies. I feel like the top out was pretty close (within 100 meters) to the hiking trail that heads past the lookout to the chief. Unless there is some sort of terrain block I don't know of you could bushwack to it and then follow it left on a traverse that drops right to the base of the squaw. Like I said though I havent tried it so it would just be a guess. Anyways, thanks for the cleaning, my partner and I really enjoyed ourselves.

camU
I'm New Here
I'm New Here
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 11:59 pm

Re: Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall

Post by camU » Thu Jul 21, 2016 2:39 pm

Awesome job. Did the wider variation and Had only a single rack to #3 Camalot, but it worked with a bit of bumping gear and back cleaning. Super fun!

Cam

andypl100
Casual Observer
Casual Observer
Posts: 22
Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2009 6:07 am

Re: Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall

Post by andypl100 » Tue Aug 15, 2017 4:57 am

Finally got on this route. Great route, and I agree P2 is an absolutely classic pitch for the grade at Squamish!

P1 is getting dirty unfortunately. P2 was clean, at least the wide crack. The thin/right side looked to be getting dirty. First half of P3 was clean, but the top half was a little bit dirty.

Hopefully a new Select guide comes out soon and features this route (and many others) so they get traffic and can remain clean.

Thanks for the cleaning job!

ps. The trail that connects Pox to Disaster Response has quite a few fallen trees across it and is starting to get a bit faint.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests